Some nice surprises at the end of our time in Tasmania

We thought the Bay of Fires was going to be our last wonderful experience in Tasmania, but we were happily surprised.  Tasmania was not done with us yet.  We enjoyed a delicious cheese tasting at the Pyengana Cheese Factory - and one of the best milkshakes I have ever had, before strolling down to St Columbia Falls.  At 94 metres - one of Tasmania's highest (but yes - we're still bitter at not getting to Montezuma Falls!).

St Columbia Falls, Pyengana

We stopped for lunch at Derby, a small former tin mining settlement. It had an excellent Tin Mine Centre, explaining the importance of tin over history, its peculiar properties and the devastating collapse of the dam wall in the 1920's.  This was a town that had a hard history, and it is well portrayed.

Freycinet Peninsula and the Bay of Fires

After picking up our delicious bread from the Ross Bakery, we made good time to the coast, and before we knew it we had set up camp at Coles Bay.  The first thing was to claim a washing machine and start working through a mountain of clothes. The second was to head down to the beach!

Coles Bay is the stepping off point for the Freycinet Peninsular. Camping in the National Park is extremely popular between Christmas and New Year, however there were plenty of spots available at the time of our visit, and if we were to come here again, we would definitely stay in the National Park.  As it was, the caravan park, with its playground, was a hit with the kids, and we were burning dollar coins in the laundr

Mole creek and Ross

We enjoyed a slower start the following morning at our beautiful camp. The boys loved exploring the camp area on their bikes, whilst mum and I enjoyed a refreshing dip :)

The Wilderness Railway, and our attempt to reach Montezuma Falls...

We left the Tasman Peninsula and retraced our steps to Hobart, to pick up our (repaired) awning and catch up with an old friend for coffee.  Hobart blessed us with a car-park - right in the centre of town - probably the only Capital City in Australia where you can pull that off with a camper in tow!

In talking with Damo, we determined that perhaps heading up the east coast was not in our best interests due to the popularity of the Freycinet Peninsula at this time of year, so we changed our plans (benefits of having no real plan anyway) and after a delicious round of coffee and hot chocolates at Princess Wharf, we headed west.

When we headed from Strahan east previously, we drove through low mist and rain.  It was a horrible drive, windy and slow.  This time, heading west, the sun was out and it was a glorious adventure with new sights and impressive vistas at nearly every turn.  We loved it, and after a quick resupply at New Norfolk, we pushed through to the delightful Lake St Clair.

Lake St Clair is the deepest fresh water natural lake in Australia.  Its actual depth seems to depend on who you ask, but there is no denying that this lake is beautiful, and a fitting end to the Overland Track popular with thousands of hikers each year.

The boys contemplate Lake St Clair

Tasman Peninsula - Port Arthur and the cute Tassie Devils

We left Bruny Island well rested and relaxed after our lazy rest day - with Port Arthur in our sights.  We meandered north, through Hobart, and decided to head to Battery Bluff on the eastern shore to capture a different view of Hobart.  Little did we know that Bellerive markets were on - so we dropped in and picked up a few fresh vegies and a delicious fish and chips lunch.

We made our way to Battery Bluff and admired the defences that would have made Hobart a fortress city if they were constructed when they were conceived.  Not for the first time in our history, our isolation proved our best defence, and the fort and battery were really only completed in the late 1800s, just in time for their technology to be superseded.

Battery Bluff, near Bellerive

That lump in the background is Mount Wellington - often covered by cloud!

As is the way in Tassie, it seemed in no time at all we were crossing the canal at Dunalley and entering the Forestier Peninsula.  Then we did what nearly everyone else does in these parts. We followed the brown tourist signs, and all tried to get better photos than the brochures, or our fellow tourists of the amazing natural features of the coastline.

Bruny Island and the beautiful Cloudy Bay

From Cockle Creek, we had no choice but to retrace our steps north - however we did divert and visit the Hastings Cave.  

The Hastings (Newdegate) Cave is unique in that it has been formed in Dolerite, not limestone like similar karst caves in Australia.  The dolerite is a Calcium / Magnesium Carbonate - which predates most limestone - hence this is a very old cave.  The chemical process for the formation of the cave is very similar to limestone caves, however the Magnesium remains in solution and is washed away

The mighty iPhone camera let me down in the cave itself, which was a bit disappointing, but we did see many of the classic cave formations, and some Tasmanian Cave Spiders when we left!

Newdgate Cave

We continued north, and resupplied before catching the ferry from Kettering.  It wasn't long before we were driving off into Bruny Island, and after picking up some fresh oysters, we stopped at Truganini Lookout.

Truganini was one of Australia's most famous Aboriginal women, although her story is far from one we can be proud of.  She hailed from Bruny Island, however when she was just 17 years old she witnessed the stabbing of her mother by Whalers.  Sealers subsequently kidnapped her two sisters, before Timber-getters murdered her husband to be.  Her father died a broken man.

Cradle Mountain

The boys woke the following morning still buzzing after our bogging in the way to Montezuma Falls.  I was relieved no serious harm was done to Rocky (it will buff out right???).  Jo was looking forward to our upcoming adventure.

After leaving our great camp at Lake Mackintosh we made our way to the most visited and loved park in Tasmania. What is more we not only saw the famous peak everyone comes to see (it is often shrouded in cloud and mist) but nature turned on a picture postcard day and revealed Cradle Mountain in all it's glory... Eat your heart out Tourism Tasmania!

We decided to walk to Marion's Lookout, a 4-5 hour walk with impressive views of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain.

The weather was cooler than the previous day's 38 degrees, but still decidedly warm when we set off on the longer but less steep track via Wombat Pool and Crater Lake.  

Crater Lake

It was a fantastic walk, and the boys did extremely well, only starting to lose motivation as we neared the peak.  A break for lunch soon restored their motivation, and we all agreed it was well worth the effort to get to the lookout. 

We then returned via the direct and very steep goat track, triumphant and very pleased with our efforts.

The boys loved wetting their hats in Dove Lake, a well deserved break.

Unfortunately my attempt to encourage them to put their finger on the lookout didn't really achieve the desired result, but The Little Fisherman in blue is the closest.  In all we walked about 5km, climbing around 300 metres from the lake.

It was a fantastic day - and one of the real highlights of the trip so far.  It is rare enough to see Cradle Mountain on a visit to the park, but to see it in full sunshine, without even a cloud's shadow on its slopes was a real bonus.  The Weather Witch was sure smiling that day.

As accommodation in the park was fully booked, we regretfully continued on our way, finding a nice camp near Mole Creek on Lake Paragana.  A delightful swim (clothing optional) was enjoyed as we washed off the sweat of the days climb.  It was sublime :)

We're getting the hang of this camping thing...

Not a bad swimming hole :)

It was a long day, a glorious day, but the following day we were see something we hadn't seen before, that must rate as one of the best activities of its type we have ever done.

The End of the Road - Cockle Creek

From Snug we meandered south, via Cygnet.  We resupplied at some roadside stalls and had the pleasure of tasting some of the best cherries we had ever eaten.

We made our way across the rickety old bridge at Cockle Creek, and visited the somber whale sculpture, before setting up camp nearby.  

The Bridge to Cockle Creek Campground

French Admiral Bruni d'Entrecasteaux was the first European to stop by this way, on his search for La Peruse (who sailed into Sydney literally hours after the First Fleet arrived and was subsequently shipwrecked in the Solomon Islands)

Hobart, Tahune Air Walk, Wooden Boats

We decided to base ourselves in Snug for a few days - and quickly established ourselves in the caravan park by punishing the washing machines with several loads of our washing!  

Snug is a delightful little community about 25 minutes south of Hobart - and whilst it might be a snug cove for ships - it was nothing of the sort for us in the caravan park with howling gales and sideways rain marking much of our stay here.

Boys loved water front camping

No trip to this area is complete without a visit to Salamanca Markets on the waterfront of Hobart.  Jo found some delicious sourdough bread, and dukkah, whilst I wandered around the docks looking at boats.  For those who haven't been to Hobart, the waterfront is a special place indeed and well worth exploring for at least half a day.

Not everyone was into the markets

Salamanca Markets - very geared for the tourist these days

Richmond - the town time forgot

With the Amarok in for a service, we took the courtesy car on a trip to Richmond, a quant little town preserved in time when it was effectively bypassed in the 1890s.  Coming ourselves from a similar town - one that time forgot - we enjoyed Richmond more than we expected.

The weather was pretty ordinary as we stepped out of the car at the Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in Australia still open to traffic.  We took shelter under the arches, and pondered the labour involved in carving the sandstone blocks around 190 years ago.  It is no where near the oldest bridge in the world, you'll need to travel to Istanbul to see that, but for Australia it is pretty impressive!

Richmond Bridge - Built 1823

And from another angle

Russell Falls, Mount Field National Park and the Gordon Dam

After leaving Strahan, we headed east via the Lyell Highway.  We had planned to stop at every lookout and walk to Nelson Falls, but a stomach bug and inclement weather saw us hightail it east.  After a resupply at New Norforlk, we headed to Mount Field National Park.  The Little Fisherman was been desperate to wet a line, and at Mount Field National Park, we found ourselves camped directly on the banks of the Tyenne River.  The lines were quickly rigged and in no time at all, we settled into an afternoon of untangling lines from branches and re-hooking lines after snags.  The trout were definitely there, but they were too smart for us on this occasion!

At last - The Little Fisherman gets to test out his gear (and in so doing get rid of most of his hooks)

Mount Field National Park is Tasmsnias oldest and most popular park, and home to the iconic Russell Falls. We found excellent campsites, clean showers and so much more than the waterfalls.  On the short walk to Russell Falls, we came across the massive Stump of a 250 year old Swamp Gum (or Mountain Ash if you're Victorian), one of the tallest flowering plants in the world.

A day on Macquarie Harbour - Strahan

After our previous day exploring the area by car, we decided the next way to explore the area would be by boat - after all the only way in and out of this area was by boat until 1932 when the highway finally opened this area up to the motor car.  We booked a tour on the Lady Jane Franklin II , operated by Gordon River Cruises.  The ship, custom built for the tour explores Macquarie Harbour out to Hells Gates, the Gordon River and the former convict settlement at Sarah Island.  We found ourselves enjoying every minute.

Strahan Harbour in the early morning

The boys were of course almost as excited as I was to be heading back out on the water for a cruise.  And the Tasmanian weather didn't disappoint.  Cold, windy and the odd passing showers made the so called 'sun deck' a place for the dedicated or mad only - particularly with the vessel's speed nudging 30 knots.

Strahan, Queenstown and the best 4wd experiences ever

With weather threatening and the 4wd track south from Arthur River to Corinna closed due to a rockfall, we decided to take the Murcheson Highway to Strahan.  We had been looking forward to exploring the 4WD track south - but were told by the Ranger that any foray south would necessitate a great deal of back tracking.  Thus it was the black top for the loop around to Strahan.

We paused for a leg stretch at the picturesque Hellyer Gorge and wished we had more time to wet a line.

Hellyer Gorge

We made our way slowly to Strahan and set up in one of the caravan parks in town where we set about punishing one of the washing machines with a huge pile of laundry.  The weather sort of holding off, we walked down to the waterfront and treated ourselves to dinner before starting a game of soccer in the camping area.

Life was good, but about to get a whole lot better.