Camping Adventures Near Esperance WA

Esperance is famous for its crystal clear waters, amazing white sands and friendly locals.  It did not disappoint in any way at all. 

After our run down from Hyden (Wave Rock) we enjoyed a couple of nights west of Esperance at Quagi Beach.  Arriving just on dinner time is always an awkward time - but once again we had a curry sitting in the thermal cooker, so we were able to spend a few moments wandering around the campsite - before we found a great camp just a little out of the way down a sandy 4WD track.  It overlooked the beach and had plenty of shelter... Perfect!

We enjoyed a great day wandering along the beach, and generally relaxing.  The wind was up, and we enjoyed some board games under the protection of the awning.  Quagi beach Campground is run by Esperance Shire Council, and cost us a grand total of $10 for our two night stay.

Give us a wave! Wave Rock and Mulka's Cave

From Kalgoorlie-Boulder, we decided to take a somewhat scenic route to Esperance, via a small town called Hyden - better known as the home of Wave Rock.

As with all good journeys, we enjoyed getting there as much as the rock itself, touring on small backroads that cross some of the largest remaining woodlands on earth.  A woodland is more open than a forest, as the tree canopies do not touch - and these woodlands are unique for their size and diversity of species.

We stopped and explored McDermid Rock, learning about the precious waterholes or 'gnammas' that these rocks hold.  Of great importance to the Aboriginal people, they are also havens for wildlife, and support some incredibly hardy vegetation.  

On McDermid Rock

This area lies on the largest granite belt in the world, giving rise to many of these rocks and their precious water storage.  It also means that as granite erodes into sand, the surrounding soil is very sandy.  It is also very low in nutrients, which is why it has never been cleared for agriculture and why it is such a unique woodland.

Kalgoorlie-Boulder - Our all too brief visit

We pulled into Kalgoorlie after a mammoth 1026km day - and a rest day was very much in order.  There was a 24 hour limit on our free camp in town, so we packed up, and treated ourselves to breakfast a the historic Dome cafe in town.  Suitably refreshed, we wandered down to the Visitor Information Centre.  Armed with all the latest information, we booked in for two nights at a local caravan park. We quickly set up camp, put three huge loads of washing on, and had a nice shower (oh bliss).  It was then time to head back into town and checked out the sights.

They even make roofs of gold here!  The old Post Office / Court House clock tower sports a gold leaf roof!

Everything in Western Australia is big.  Big distances between towns, big farms ploughed and harvested by big machinery, all costing big dollars - but sometimes you see something that is absolutely massive.  Yes, we went to the Super-Pit.  A vision of Allan Bond, the SuperPit brought the amalgamation of several mining leases, in order to extract the gold ore using open cut mining techniques.  Whilst Allan Bond never achieved his objective - he went bust before pulling it off, he is credited with the idea that created the largest open cut gold mine in the world.

The buckets used to load the trucks are huge - holding about 35 tonnes of ore.

Looking into the huge cut - massive 793C ore trucks look like matchbox cars

Nullarbor - and the path less travelled

The Eyre Highway and its crossing of the Nullarbor Plain would have to be one of Australia’s most famous roads.  And with good reason.  It is such an iconic road, that these days can be covered in about two days in the comfort of your air conditioned car.

It wasn't that long ago that things were very different – and we caught a glimpse back in time as we took a slightly offbeat crossing of the continent.

Whilst the Yalata Roadhouse might have closed down, it is still the first place you will find the mighty three hazards of this drive– Camels, Kangaroos and Wombats.  When you cross the border Wombats are replaced by Emu – but you get the idea.  This is a road best driven in daylight hours only.

Next 96km... The first of the big three hazards!

Not long out of Yalata, the vegetation shrinks in size, and you enter the true Nullarbor Plain.  Nullarbor is not an Aboriginal name, but rather comes from the Latin – Null (nil) Arbor (trees).  Due to a limestone layer just beneath the surface, trees are unable to grow in this area – and it was worth a stop here too – and this is one part of the world that the camera will never capture the enormity of the sky as you stand surrounded by a whole heap of, well, nothing.

Don’t let that fool you.  This place is fascinating.  We drove to Head of the Bight, and looked over the magnificent Bunda Clifs, that stretch for hundreds of kiliometres.  It is believed that these are the longest line of cliffs anywhere in the world.  It is also a nursery for Southern Wright Whales – during the winter months.

Head of the Bight

We refuelled at Nullarbor Roadhouse – because our next diversion was off the main road not much further west.  As I was paying, I explained that we were thinking of heading up to Cook, for a look.  I was glad I asked, because not only was the attendant (owner) happy to give me advice on the roads, but he also suggested we stop at Koonalda Homestead for a look.  And what a great afternoon we had.

Out of Nullarbor we followed the original Eyre Highway for about 30 kilometres.  This was the original track carved during the Second World War (there was no road other than station tracks before then). When the highway was sealed, it was also remade further south – and the old highway hasn’t been graded since!

Highway One - on the Nullarbor

Coffin Bay and Baird Bay - both unforgettable

Coffin Bay National Park is only a short drive from Port Lincoln, and we were nervous it would be busy.  We had been advised that Lincoln National Park would be packed for the long weekend, and expected that the crowds would overflow to Coffin Bay also.

The trick to avoid the crowds is to go a little further than everyone else.  The National Park advises 4WD only past Yangie Bay – and I was a little nervous (and excited) as I let the tyres down.  And am I glad I did.  Almost immediately past the Yangie Bay campground we found ourselves in soft sand.  Towing a trailer in these conditions adds an element of excitement as you really must keep the momentum up, but still have to be prepared to meet someone coming the opposite way on the single lane tracks. 

We made it through the sand, and over the rocky limestone ledges without a drama (and without meeting anyone) and set up camp at Black Springs.  We had a great campsite – again overlooking a pristine beach, with nice shade and shelter – and caught up with some friends we had met a few nights earlier.

The view from Black Springs Camp

The road continues past Black Springs and onto Seven Mile Beach, before returning inland for the western most part of the Park.  I was glad we had left the camper behind as we went for a little drive out onto the beach – and the boys loved the massive sand dunes that came right up to the beach.