Tuesday 22 April 2014

Charming Fremantle and Perth

We planned on a brief visit to Perth, and could easily have stayed a month.  The main reason for our calling was to get some new springs fitted to Rocky, to hopefully get a bit more space between us and the rocks we had been scraping over.  Plans were thrown into disarray when a freight train derailed near Tarcoola in South Australia, and it seemed our replacement springs were in one of the 18 carriages that had become a semi-permanent feature of the South Australia landscape.

In a way it was a blessing in disguise - even if it didn't seem like it at the time.

Fremantle

One of my favourite cities in Australia would have to be Fremantle.  I had many fond memories of hanging about here in my youth - and whilst some things had changed - many of the best were refreshingly unchanged.  Unfortunately it was me that was a little older and wiser - so we didn't spend the day at the Sail and Anchor, or Little Creatures, or even the Norfolk...  No, it was off to the playground for us.


I never thought my first stop on a return to Fremantle would be the playground!
Be that as it may, it was fantastic to wander around the city with no real timetable.  We found our way to the Visitor Information Centre, and armed with a map with all the things to see and do, we decided to pick just a few to visit.  The first on our list was The Round House.  Formerly a gaol, and a maritime signalling station, it is Western Australia's oldest public building.  The stocks were popular with the kids - but it is probably a good thing I didn't have any rotten tomatos in my pocket when Mum had a go...
They could have charged by the hour for babysiting!

We also checked out the old signal cannon and ball.  Fired at exactly 1pm daily, the cannon lowered the black ball (an official maritime signal) allowing ships to reset their chronometers or accurate timepieces vital for the determination of longitude at sea.  Replaced by radio telegraphy, it was ceased in the 1920s, before being resumed about 15 years ago as a tourist attraction.
The signal cannon at The Round House
We then wandered along the waterfront and paused at the Fisherman's Memorial.  This beautiful memorial stands to fisherman who have lost their lives at sea, in the course of their livelihood.  It is still a dangerous profession with underwater obstructions still snagging fishing vessel nets and capsizing the boats with depressing regularity.
Fisherman's Memorial - Fremantle
With fishing being the main industry in the immediate vicinity, we decided to treat ourselves to a fresh fish and chip lunch.  It was delicious - and the setting wasn't too bad either - especially when the dolphins cruised in looking for a feed of even fresher fish, still swimming below the wharves!
Fresh Fish and Chips... Yum!
It was then time to visit the former Maritime Museum, now the Shipwreck Gallery, to learn about some of the shipwrecks on the West Australian Coast.  1400 Dutch ships that sailed up the West Australian Coast from 1610 when the route to Batavia (Jakarta) was first surveyed (prior to this the ships sailed up the African coast and then headed east in the unpredictable tropical airs.  Of the 1400 ships, only five where shipwrecked, the most famous of these being the Batavia.

The Batavia, wrecked in 1629 became the scene of a horrible mutiny, with nearly 130 of the survivors murdered.  It is a sad story of human greed overtaking humanity in a harsh, unforgiving and unfamiliar environment.  Trying to explain the story to the boys was at times a little challenging, but we explained to them that it is important we learn from the mistakes of the past to ensure such a horrible situation never happens again.
The timbers from the Batavia were painstakingly recovered and reassembled in Fremantle
Kings Park

Another of our must do visits here was Kings Park.  This magnificent park overlooks the city of Perth.  With a lot of the park being native bush, it also has some beautifully manicured areas.  For a pair of boys who hadn't seen green grass in a while, it was all too much and we spent a good while lying on the magnificent green.
Kings Park - good fun!

Kings Park War Memorial

City of Perth
With the suspension delayed we enjoyed a family day kicking about the pool at the caravan park, before heading to the movies to catch none other than the Lego Movie.  This was a brilliant film, that we all enjoyed.  Unfortunately we also bought the theme song, which has now been on repeat in the car, and is wearing a little on the thin side!

In our travels around Perth, we marvelled at the modern rail and freeway system, vastly expanded on when I called this part of the world home.  Unfortunately we timed one run home a little too late and hit dreaded traffic.
Traffic - not something we missed at all!
We found Perth a fast, exciting and modern city.  It is a city that is fast expanding, with something like a thousand extra residents a week moving in.  There is a disconnect with the mining boom not sharing its spoils equally, with the 'two speed economy' apparent at the local level. That said, their is a vibrancy about Perth that hasn't changed.  It is a city for entrepreneurs, and dreamers  The old world charm of Fremantle felt homely and familiar - it was a place that would be a very enjoyable city to visit without the kids.

But as it was, we still had no idea where our springs were, or when they would arrive.  WA doesn't just stand for Western Australia, but Wait Awhile is also a fitting name.  It is an isolated city, and the supply lines are often long and complicated.

So, with Easter fast approaching, we took up the kind offer of a friend to head to the sleepy town of York for a few days.  It seemed the perfect tonic to a rather hectic few weeks, and indeed it was.  York was full of pleasant surprises, including some really really fast cars - and not just at the Motor Museum.

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