Tuesday 4 February 2014

Great Ocean Road Victoria

With temperatures set to soar again in Victoria, we decided to head for somewhere where the air was cooler - and of course this meant a run to the coast.  So with the Air Conditioner working overtime, we pointed our bonnet southerly and headed for Queenscliff.

I know we missed seeing a heap of stuff at Ballarat - and heaps of stuff at Geelong too, but we live less than a days drive from here - and we will be back - one school holidays - to explore this area further.

Queenscliff and Point Lonsdale stand at the western side of the notorious entrance to Port Phillip.  And having seen the lights - indeed used them for safe navigation previously, it was great to visit the lights up close.

One of the leading lights at Queenscliff
These lights watch over the entrance and the notorious and aptly named 'Rip' that swirls the tidal waters like a washing machine.  To have felt the power of those currents from a ship - it was much more pleasant to watch them from the safety of the beach.
Point Lonsdale Light and former signal station
We continued along the coast, and enjoyed a camp at Ocean Grove near the heads of the Barwon River.  It was a wonderful evening for a stroll after dinner - and we tried a new form of selfie!

Not your normal selfie!
We continued our walk up the sheltered tidal flats on the Barwon River - and the boys loved exploring the flats - coming back covered in mud.  But of course, that is what boys do.

The flats were beautiful in the evening light
The following day we hit the Great Ocean Road proper - and this is an iconic and beautiful drive.  It was built or perhaps carved would be a better term by returned soldiers from the first World War as a memorial to their fallen mates.  It is the sort of drive that every turn opens up a new, spectacular vista and leaves you wanting more.  It is glorious - and we loved every minute.

We took lots of photos - and diverted to Erskine Falls too, but Teddy's Lookout at Lorne perhaps is one of the best spots to gain an appreciation of the terrain.  The road literally hugs the cliffs in this section - and we could have spent much longer in this part of the world alone.  Lorne deserves a week in itself.  We will be back!
Teddys Lookout
We cut short our time at Apollo Bay and made ground to claim a campsite at Blanket Bay near Cape Otway. Cape Otway might be the site of one of the most significant lighthouses in Australia, and well worth visiting in its own right, but the road leading to the light is also home to hundreds, possibly thousands of koalas - as is the campground and we wanted to spend a few days here to recoup.
Our Cheeky Neighbours!
We spent a morning in the Lighthouse precinct - and it has come a long way since my last visit here 15 years ago.  The original light is still in working order, replaced by a modern solar powered light, far cheaper to run of course than the old lead crystal lens.


The boys with the anchor from Eric The Red, wrecked just off shore

At the top of the light

From the WWII Radar station bunker

Nature slowly reclaiming old fences
Blanket Bay was a fantastic camp, with echidnas joining the koalas around the camp, and the sheltered parts of the beach perfect for snorkeling.  We played beach cricket too, and enjoyed  a rest day.  Couldn't have picked a nicer spot really - and the final sunrise was a corker!
Sunrise at Blanket Bay
Finally we dragged ourselves away and continued west, pausing to admire Johanna's Beach.  Whilst the spelling might be slightly different, I can attest that both Johanna's beach, and the Joanna I married are beautiful, but you don't want to be anywhere nearby if a storm is brewing!
Johanna's Beach
We walked down to Wreck Beach near Moonlight Head, and found the anchor of the Moonlight.  Little else remains, but the anchor is a solemn reminder as to why this part of the coast is called the shipwreck coast.  The walk took us about an hour and a half - with 360 steps down to the beach.  It was far harder on the way back to the carpark - but a promised sausage roll for lunch did wonders for the motivation of little legs!

A sombre reminder of the perils of early seafaring.

Before Bass Strait was the recognised route, ships used to sail south of Tasmania, before heading north to Sydney.  Only four out of some two hundred ships were lost on this passage.  Once the Strait was confirmed, and the Admiralty approved the route, the disasters started to mount as ships attempted to sail into the 'Eye of the Needle'.  Well over a hundred wrecks lie on this shore - and countless souls.

We diverted for a while down the original Ocean Road, before stopping again at the iconic Gibson Steps and the Twelve Apostles.  This part of the world is simply amazing.  There is little wonder it is on nearly every tourist brochure that Australia has ever produced.  I don't remember it being so busy - but it is still just as beautiful.
From the base of Gibson Steps
Even little legs made it!
Just as amazing as ever
Perhaps not all twelve - but well worth seeing nonetheless
The Loch Ard Gorge is still just as awe inspiring - perhaps out of all the wrecks in this part of the coast it captures the imagination more than any.  Hauntingly beautiful yet deadly, the cliffs appeared out of the mist, and desperate attempts to clear the coast failed.  We went down to the gorge itself - and pondered the lucky survival of just two from the 58 on board.
The Loch Ard was wrecked just outside the entrance

The view from the beach
It was a long day - and although we didn't travel far, we had done some fair walking and lots of steps.  It was time for a change - so we headed inland and found something completely unexpected at our next camp.

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