We had been taking every alternative route and diversion off the Gibb River Road that is possible so far, drinking precious fuel. Our next destination was around 100km off the Gibb River Road, so we were relieved the Imintji store was open on a Saturday. We refuelled at our most expensive diesel of the trip so far (at $2.365 per litre) and bought an ice cream... who cares that it was half past nine in the morning and cost a fortune... it was delicious.
Our planned destination was the Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary run by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC). We had no idea who the AWC were on our arrival, but it turns out they own 23 wilderness sanctuaries around Australia with the aim of protecting all of Australia's native animals, birds and their habitat. Free from the bureaucracy of government, 80 percent of their staff are in the field actively studying and managing these sanctuaries. They're assisted in their studies by an army of volunteers. We came away greatly impressed with what they have achieved here, and the way they are going about it.
The Mornington Station was acquired by the AWC in around 2001, and since then has been destocked, the fire reigeime altered and feral cats monitored leading to a dramatic rebound in the abundance and diversity of native animals, birds and plants. We found it remarkable what a difference a fenceline made to the vegetation on the way into the property, being distinctly healthier and more prolific on the sanctuary's side.
Of course it helps that the Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary has some great waterholes to swim in too, and we quickly immersed ourselves in Cadjeput waterhole on the Fitzroy River.
Cadjeput Waterhole
On our way back to camp we also checked out Sir John Gorge. Upstream from Cadjeput, we found ourselves in a rocky gorge with magnificent colours that changed as the sun sank lower in the sky. It was a lovely spot to spend the afternoon.
The next day we had organised a treat - canoe hire at Dimond Gorge. Dimond Gorge is a natural choke point for the Fitzroy River, which at its peak in the wet season thunders some 50 metres higher than the current water level, pouring over the gorge completely. The rocks are scoured, with barely a patch of sand to be seen in the tightest parts, however clinging to the walls of the gorge are Livistoni Palms and Maleluka Paperbarks.
We had a great time paddling in Dimond Gorge - but when we got back to the start point is where the fun really began. Whilst Mum and I relaxed and went for a swim, the boys commandeered a canoe and started playing battle ships. They spent a good hour and a half paddling around and generally wearing themselves out.
The Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary has some pretty impressive vistas, and we paused and took a photo of the Fitzroy Bluff on our return to camp. With the sun behind us, the red colours of the rock contrasting with the yellow savannah and blue sky provided a great photo opportunity.
We capped off the day with a drink at the bar (very special treat) before settling down and listening to a talk given by one of the staff at Mornington. Richard explained who the AWC is and what their approach to wildlife conservation is. It was most interesting for all of us - and provided some additional information for the next school projects... watch this space!
**Update**
The Little Fisherman's project on Feral Cats can be found here: http://project2014australia.blogspot.com.au/p/lachlans-projects.html
and The Little Helper's project on managing bushfires can be found here: http://project2014australia.blogspot.com.au/p/little-helpers-school-projects.html
**End Update**
The following morming we made our way back to the Gibb River Road and backtracked the 25km to Imintji Store, where we refuelled and bought some veggies to supplement our dwindling supplies.
Adcock Gorge
Our lunch stop was the not often visited Adcock Gorge. At the end of a pretty rough track we found ourselves walking up the gorge to a beautiful swimming hole. The water was still trickling down the falls, and we enjoyed the serentiy of having the place to ourselves. It wasn't the first time we were thankfull for having a 4WD with a trailer that could follow the car almost anywhere as we followed the rough washed out 4wd track back to the main road.
Galvans Gorge
Only a few minutes down the road from Adcock Gorge, we found ourselves pulling off again at Galvan's Gorge. A 1km walk from the car park found ourselves in a stunning rock pool, full of tourists. The pool was deep, clear and inviting, so we all ended up going for a swim and sitting under the falls for a bit. In talking with the bus(truck) driver, he was saying that no one has ever got to the bottom of the pool - and one of the other drivers is a free diver who can get down to about 15 metres! I am not sure whether that made us feel better about swimming in the pool or not - so we concentrated on staying on the surface and having a wonderful time. Like all bus groups - their schedule was tight, so we soon found ourselves almost alone enjoying the pool in all its glory.
Manning Gorge
We checked in at the Mount Barnett Roadhouse for a couple of nights at nearby Manning Gorge. The campground was pretty full when we arrived, and everyone was knackered, so we planned for an early night. Of course when you want an early night you somehow get distracted with some of the interesting people you meet, and a camp fire kept us going long after it was cool enough to be rugged up in bed!
The glorious sunrise soon had us up and looking forward to the walk to Manning Gorge. After negotiating the punt-on-a-string to cross the river near the campground, we made the 2km walk to the falls in good time. Manning falls is a spectacular waterfall, and the pool at its base is deep, crystal clear and incredibly inviting. We soon found ourselves splashing around in the water, and jumping from rocks into the pools below. It was a glorious. Again I had left the waterproof goPro camera in the car.
The walk back to the camp soon had us dry and looking forward to another swim. The best feature of Manning Gorge is that just near camp you have another excellent swimming hole - complete with resident freshwater crocodile and a punt-on-a-string for bush walkers, which also doubles as an entertainment device for little people.
Playing on the punt
It was a most idyllic place to spend the afternoon - and the kids were especially knackered when it was time to wander back to camp. The Little Helper played ferryman for all the walkers returning from the gorge, almost wearing his hands raw in the process.
I was really looking forward to an early night, when in one of those strange coincidences that happens when you travel, we ran into some friends of friends at the campground. And so our evening quickly passed with Bron and Paul - another thoroughly enjoyable evening - if not quite planned that way.
We had a long day to drive the following morning, and as everyone in our family knows, a tired Dad is a grumpy Dad. I put an extra teaspoon of coffee in the plunger at breakfast, just to save at least one of the boy's lives later in the day, and we packed up and bade farewell to Manning Gorge. We survived, and you can find out about our next adventures here: http://project2014australia.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/gibb-river-road-part-iii-mitchell-falls.html
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