A few nights in the Victorian High Country - and a broken Amarok

Every now and then the moon and stars and moon align, and I get the opportunity to take off for a couple of nights with the guys who introduced us into four wheel drive touring.  This is a part of Australia that we have not spent much time exploring, and I was looking forward to changing that.  I also knew I was in good company.  These guys have forgotten more about four wheel driving than I'll ever learn - and I was eager to pick up some tips.

Jo had given me a leave pass for a few nights, so I packed the car with essentials for a solo few nights.  A swag, some beer and a ten minute run around Aldi had me stocked with enough food for the adventure.  

Jo's only instruction: "Don't break Rocky!"  

I confidently assured her that I wouldn't do anything silly and would bring the car back in tip top condition in a couple of days....  How wrong I was!

The Simpson Desert - 2016

It was an exciting moment filling up with fuel at Mount Dare.  This is the last fuel stop before entering the Simpson Desert.  We really were not sure what to expect as this was our first crossing - and all of us were looking forward to the next six or seven nights.  We filled the fuel tanks to the brim, bought our Desert Passes and enjoyed a last ice cream.  It wasn't long and we were on the road to our first camp - Dalhousie Springs.

Dalhousie Springs is an oasis on the western edge of the desert.  The artesian water is a delightful 39 degrees, and we spend the best part of a full day lolling about in this paradise.  The three boys delighted in playing the in water, jumping out and enjoying the novelty of cooling in the breeze before warming up again in the water.  

On the Oodnadatta Track, Painted Desert and beyond

After a long day on the road, we camped overnight at Wearing Gorge in the Flinders Ranges.  Having received good rain in the previous few weeks, the landscape became more green and lush the further west we pushed.  The next morning we had a leg stretch at Blinman, before proceeding down the Parachilna Gorge.

The grass was so green in places it almost hurt our eyes to look at it!

On our previous visit, we had promised the boys a meal at the Prairie Hotel.  Unfortunately it was closed - and perhaps that was a good thing...  (See here: http://project2014australia.blogspot.com.au/2014/03/wilpena-pound-and-rawnsley-park.html).

Sadly with any highly anticipated activity, we were a bit disappointed with the Prairie Hotel, Parachilna.  It had been renovated without taste in a way which had destroyed all former character. There was no bar, save a glimpse at what could have been, now filled not with taps, but a till. The walls were covered in expensive art for sale, with only the occasional piece eliciting pleasure. And the meals were something else again.  Trying to be inner city chic, the meals would have been more fitting in inner city Hipsterville.  Sorry Prairie Hotel Parachilna, we won't be back.

On the road to Silverton

After living on the road for twelve months back in 2014, some people would think our travelling would be done.  Others, perhaps wiser, would know that it has barely begun.  For the past few months we have been planning a trip to the Simpson Desert, and on Saturday 6th August 2016, we set off.  Looking back on that 2014 trip, it is easy to see how much these beautiful boys have grown.

This was to be a trip without our camper trailer 'Matilda'.  We were not sure how going with just swags (and an emergency tent) would go.  We figured we would be alright, unless it rained... and in a few short weeks we would test the limits of our wet weather capability.  We were also travelling with friends Kylie, Jim and their boy, The Little Fossicker.

Our first night was on the banks of the Murray River at Euston.  Jo had made special onesy outfits for the cold nights - and the kids loved them.  There was no complaints from any of the swag dwellers, so we pressed on.

We traced the Murrumbidgee River from home, and later followed the Murray stopping at Wentworth to see the confluence of the Murray and Darling Rivers.  We would be crossing the Darling River again in a few weeks some 1,970 kilometres by river north at Bourke.

On the road again... time to get everything ready!

I can hardly believe how quickly time has been flying by since we have returned home from our big adventure.  Two years ago we were kicking around the Red Centre, marvelling at Uluru in all its glory.  Life has moved on, the kids continue to grow like weeds, and things have settled back down to a new normal.

Or have they...

Over the past few months I have been finding myself increasingly torn between hitting the road again, or staying put.  Even devoting energies into a new blog (https://rockfarming.com/) hasn't been enough to convince me that home is where it will be at for ever.  Indeed the feet are growing itchy again.  Just as well that a new adventure is on the horizon.

The  Simpson Desert

It is an iconic trip that isn't to be taken lightly.  When I think back to our first foray into 4WD touring, it seemed a remote, distant possibility.  Now with a little bit of experience under our belts, we  think we are ready to give it a go.

This will also be our first extended trip without our trusty Aussie Swag camper trailer (Matilda).  Whilst camper trailers are not banned in the Simpson Desert (yet), all my research suggests they are a silly idea.  We decided that towing through the desert will entail too greater risk of stretching our chassis, or worst still, friendships. 

The site supervisor tests the extra height 

Whilst our camping configuration will be very different, there are no real changes for Rocky other than a 60 litre water tank installed under the tray. This took a friend and I the best part of a short school day to get fitted.  I opted for a simple caravan tank and standard fittings, with a gravity feed on the tap.  It works a treat!

A creek, a pan, a fortune might be found.

With a rare weekend free, we accepted an invitation with geologist friends to try and find our fortune at a public fossicking area somewhere near Tumbarumba, west of the Snowy Mountains.  We were lured not only by the promise of rubies and sapphires, but also a picturesque camp beside a pleasant creek.

And what a wonderful weekend we had - with plenty of reward for our efforts.

We were all keen to get out under canvas again.  The boys were eager to sleep in their swags, and soon found a spot that wasn't too lumpy.  The little supervisor (aka Dylis) was thrilled that our camp was in State Forest - so she could come along for the fun too.

Siding Springs and the Warrumbungles Grand High Tops Walk

The Warrumbungle Range rises from the surrounding plains with an unmistakable silhouette.  On the peak of one of the mountains is the unmistakable dome of the Siding Springs Observatory.  This 3.9m mirror telescope is one of several observatories on the peak of the mountain, and has contributed to some startling discoveries since it was opened in 1974.  It is open during the day, and we all learnt just a little into the amazing world of space, black holes, nebulas and dark matter. 

 

A couple of nights later we enjoyed a stargazing tour down the road at the Warrumbungle Observatory.  With our host named Peter Starr, we knew we were in good hands, and we spent an hour and a half observing Saturn, distant nebulas (star factories), other galaxies and even more.  Peter used to work at Siding Springs Observatory, and explained that the site was chosen for a number of reasons. 

• The high elevation reduced the amount of atmosphere thereby increasing clarity
• The mid latitude location allows the full southern sky to be observed
• The area has few cloudy nights

Lightning Ridge - after we re-create a bet at Walgett

From Inverell we meandered west, pausing at the historic town of Bingara.  Whilst the famous cafe at the Roxy theatre has closed, we were very interested in the food garden being created on the town common.  This vision of a productive common providing enough food to feed the community is only in its infancy, but we were inspired by the people of Bingara.  Whilst our own plans are much more modest, we learnt a lot wandering around the young groves, and will be sure to visit again to check on future progress.

We enjoyed a night at Glacial Rocks - all taking turns under the little water fall.  It was really peaceful to be camping with just ourselves.  The river provided a melodious backdrop to our evening camp, and we could easily have spent more time in the picturesque place.    Before we left, we all placed a small stone in our pockets - in preparation for our next stop.

Reunited we fossick at Inverell - and I don't have to dig!

With Rocky fully repaired and ready for action, we were keen to return to Armidale and get camping. It was time to also get fossicking again. Before the week was out, I learnt a much easier way to fossick...

But some things are more important, like friends and nice beaches.  So after a short stopover with Jo's parents in Caloundra (thank you again for your wonderful hospitality), we diverted to the magical town of Byron Bay.  We were all looking forward to catching up with some dear friends - and a dip in the beautiful water was a bonus.

The weather was absolutely perfect, and we spent ages splashing about in the waves.  You can see why this is such a popular place with tourists, and jealously guarded by the locals.

We came back to Armidale to a repaired Amarok.  The dealer in Tamworth had replaced the CV boot and the air conditioner compressor.  Shane from Opposite Lock had picked up Rocky to replace our broken shock absorber.  Mum and Dad had then picked up Rocky and brought it back to their place.  I was really impressed with the team from Opposite Lock in Tamworth - who were extremely easy to deal with over the phone, and would happily recommend them.

Delights of Mackay

With the best part of a week in Mackay, our main focus was catching up with my brother and his beautiful family. With one young man proudly two, and his younger brother just starting to wiggle around the house, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in this house of love and laughter.

We also managed to get out a bit too, and re-discovered a city that has retracted from the excesses of the mining boom, returning to its good natured North Queensland roots. 

Having dropped in at Mackay somewhat regularly over the past 15 years or so, I really enjoyed exploring some parts of the city I never knew existed... and if I'm completely honest, I probably wouldn't have been interested in 15 years ago, such as the Botanic Gardens.

In borrowed wheels, the road trip continues north...

With Rocky booked in to be towed to the Dealer, and plans already made for Mackay, I knew I had to continue to make ground north.  I might also have been just a little keen to catch up with the family, having missed them terribly over the previous fortnight.  Thankfully my parents were able to lend me their second car for the journey onward.

It was a good decision.  After driving 750km the previous day, I had another 600km to get to Caloundra, and 900km more to Mackay.  My brother had arranged time off work especially for our visit, meaning I didn't have the luxury of sitting in Tamworth waiting for parts to arrive from Sydney. 

Getting the camper ready to travel again....

In little more than a blink of an eye, school holidays are again upon us.  Whilst I cannot believe how quickly three terms have gone by since we returned home after 12 months on the road, these holidays see us hit the road again with our faithful travelling companions, Rocky and Matilda.   With a couple of weeks to go until we get back on the road, it was a good idea to pull everything out and check it thoroughly.

We have only camped once since we have been back.  We have largely neglected the camping gear for the past nine months.  For the most part it was pushed to the back of the shed and 'stored'.  Unfortunately other items have been dispersed or requisitioned for other projects.  Reassembling all the various bits and pieces has taken me longer than I thought.

It is a funny feeling pulling out the goods and chattels that we dragged around the country last year. Each item invokes a particular memory, such as the BBQ that made not only delicious roasts, but also baked scones with a roast meat flavour! Or finding the plastic drink cup that was used as an emergency dust cover on Matilda after the wheel bearings failed on the Tanami.

The ferocious dog watches on as I start reassembling the camping gear

Mainly it is amazing how a fresh pair of eyes makes everything look tired.  Our camp chairs, held together with bits of wire and fabricated bolts and which we promised to replace once we got home, still faithfully answer the call.  Likewise our bench seats with stylish gaffa tape highlights over bottom pinching splits, should have been put out with the rubbish.  But due to a shift in priorities, we haven't got around to replacing them.  

Where to next?

It is amazing how quickly life has returned to normal since our amazing adventure in 2014.  It has been wonderful to reconnect with friends and contribute again to our great little community.  Our lives have become full of the cycle or work, school, sport, cubs, and trying to implement some of the ideas we learnt in 2014 on our patch of dirt.  

And as happy as we are to be home, our big lap last year has left a mark on our souls.  

Could it be that we still have itchy feet?  There are still so many parts of this country that we want to explore in greater depth?  Or could it be that it is just so cold here in winter!

Either way, the other night we pulled the maps out from under Rocky's seat, and started dreaming again.

Mount Kosciuszko with kids - back on the road again

Little more than two months after coming home, unpacking everything and getting back into the swing of life - our feet started getting itchy again.  Now don't get me wrong, it is great being home, and we are right back into the swing of school, work and renovations (yes - we find plenty of ways to keep busy).  But we had one major challenge we wanted to complete. 

On our 12 month journey around Australia, we saw many Australian icons, swam under some fabulous waterfalls, and climbed some picturesque mountains.  There was one mountain that we didn't conquer on our trip, and it was nagging us.

It was time to head to the High Country and the Australian mainland's highest peak - Mount Kosciuszko.  (Australia's highest peak is actually Mawson Peak, part of active volcano Big Ben on Heard Island way south west of the continent)

There is no place like home

54 904km and 377 days after our departure, we returned home after our wonderful crazy adventure.  

On our journey we met many wonderful, inspiring and fascinating people. We were extremely fortunate to gain snippets into other worlds, from a mighty cattle station in the Territory, to remote Aboriginal communities. We saw nature at its best. We saw mankind’s insatiable appetite for resources literally moving mountains. We laughed and cried with other travellers. We laughed and cried with each other.

Home at last... including a very happy pooch :)

We swam with sea-lions, dolphins and freshwater crocodiles. We snorkelled in natural aquariums teeming with exotic sea life, plunged into deep rock pools carved by crystal clear waters, wallowed in pristine lakes and stole kisses under remote cascading water-falls.

And our journey changes, reflections after a year on the road.

Faced with the prospect of heavy rain (severe thunderstorms),  access routes being cut by rising river crossings and several days waiting for things to dry out again, we held a family discussion.  We had been looking forward to heading down to Main Range National Park, but it looked as if the Park would bear the brunt of the oncoming storms.  At times like this, the resident meteorologist (aka Weather Witch) cast the deciding vote.

We took the easy option, packed up in the sun with everything dry and returned to Mama and Pa's.

All packed up

It was a time to pause for a moment as this decision would mark a turning point in our adventure to date.  

The Majestic Bunya Mountains

With Rocky sporting a new rear window, a dashing silver duco (amazing what a wash will do) and four refreshed passengers, we embarked for a few days in the Bunya Mountains, a couple of hours east of the Sunshine Coast.  It was great to be back on the road again, and we wound our way past the Glasshouse Mountains on our way to the Bunyas.  The road became steeper and signs started warning that the road ahead was unsuitable for buses, trucks and caravans - just our kind of adventure.

The hills became steeper and steeper - but thankfully we had plenty in reserve as Rocky sailed up them in second gear.  We soon had risen over 1000 metres above sea level, and paused to take in the view at Fisher's Lookout.

Bunya Mountains - On top of the world

Bunya Mountains - even Rocky made it!

Recoup, Repair and Recharge on the Sunshine Coast

We rolled off the ferry from Fraser Island with sand in every possible place - and if we thought we were bad - the car was worse.  Our garbage bag rear window was more than up for sedate trips around the island, but the highway revealed a monotonous drone - reminiscent of our days owning a soft top Jeep Wrangler.  We needed a place to stop, unpack and wash everything - and decided to return a surprise on Mama and Pa who lived just down the road.

Thankfully they were home - and graciously allowed us in.  For the next few days we appreciated luxuries such as hot running water, inside bathrooms, comfortable couches, and a library of new books to read.  Mama and Pa thoroughly spoilt us allowing us to catch up on a few other odd jobs.

How good is a couch and a new book!

The first to do was to give Rocky and Matilda a thorough wash.  They had received the special underbody wash at Rainbow Beach - which was a good start, but it was by no means sufficient.  After the wash, the Little Helpers were each armed with a can of WD-40 and sent underneath Rocky and Matilda with instructions to sqirt anything that looked like it might need it.  Two empty cans later, it seemed we were starting to get ontop of the exterior.

Fraser Island - Part 2 - The Stunning Inland

We had enjoyed our time at the beautiful camp site at Dundaburra, but it was time to venture inland and explore some more of Fraser Island.  With low water being not long after breakfast, we packed up in the morning and made our way back south on 75 Mile Beach.

One of the most stunning creeks on the east coast is Eli Creek.  Pure fresh water flows in large volumes along this sandy creek bed into the Coral Sea.  Popular with tourists we were the first car of the morning to pull up near the creek - and for a good 20 minutes had this magic piece of paradise to ourselves.

Eli Creek - delightful

We walked up the boardwark a couple of hundred meters, and entered the water.  Being the first of the morning, the creek was pristine, and jungle perch scooted out of our way as we floated down towards the mouth.  

Fraser Island - Part One - The Rugged East Coast

Fraser Island, or K'gari as it was known long before time began by the Butchulla people, is a magnificent sandy island that is nearly all world heritage listed National Park.  There are almost no sealed roads on the island, meaning the only way to get around it is by boat, or four wheel drive.  Half of the adventure is in getting here - with soft sand on the beach landing the first hurdle.  Rocky pulled us through the soft sand to the firmer stuff closer to the waters edge, and before we knew it, we were on the ferry heading on our way across to K'gari.

On the Manta Ray ferry

The easiest 'road' to drive on the island is the eastern beach.  Whilst you can drive it at high tide, the soft sand makes it heavy going.  We elected to wait until a couple of hours before low water, meaning we would easily clear Hook Point and then be able to drive up to our camp at Dundaburra, about three quarters of the way up the eastern beach towards Indian Head.  Our spirits were high as we rounded the point and started making our way north.  The sand was hard, and we cruised up comfortably at around 60km/hr, well under the signposted 80km/hr.  This is a gazetted road, and normal road rules apply, despite the challenges of surf, fishermen, creeks, washouts and swales in the sand.

The famous 75 mile beach - all hooked up and looking forward to our next few days

Due to the tides, we arrived in camp reasonably late and set up quickly.  The beautiful shaded camp-site was fenced, meaning we wouldn't have to worry about Dingos around camp.  Goannas were another story, meaning we still had to follow our usual food and rubbish pack away routine.