Our trip down the Tanami Desert started near Halls Creek. Before we set off on one of the worlds longest shortcuts,we checked out some of the sights near Old Halls Creek, the site of the first gold rush in Western Australia. Our first stop was China Wall, a vertical intrusion of quartz that has since resisted weathering more than the surrounding sandstone and now stands in places up to six metres tall. We had seen many examples of this on our drive down from Purnululu, but the example just on the edge of town was the most impressive.
It was only when we got close up to the wall of rock that we really appreciated how large it is.
A little monkey on China Wall
We drove a little further down the road, seeking a camp site for the evening. It had been a reasonably long day on the road, and we checked out the beautiful Caroline Pool. It was getting a little crowded there (there was one other camper set up) so we decided to move on.
Our camp for the night was nearby, just out of Old Halls Creek in a secluded bend on the creek. We had the place to ourselves, which was delightful. Being a stones throw from the original gold rush in WA, it was time to break out the gold pans and try our luck.
The first pan was enthusiastically processed, but by the third pan with no hint of the precious gold the enthusiasm for gold panning had definitely waned. The boys then amused themselves on the waters edge before we finally dragged them away for dinner and a warm shower before tucking them in bed.
We were a little disappointed with the original township of Old Halls Creek, so returned to the highway and resumed our passage south. A few minutes later we were turning right onto the Tanami Road and commencing our journey on the 1066km 'shortcut' to Alice Springs. We were looking forward to spending a few days in Alice Springs to catch up on maintenance of both machine and man.
After conquering the Gibb River Road, I was pretty confident we were well set up to deal with anything that the Tanami could throw at us. I shouldn't have been so sure.
Our overnight camp was at Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. Having not seen the movie, we had no problem camping here and checking out the second largest crater of its type in the world.
Some 300 000 years ago an iron meteorite crashed to earth here, creating this massive 850 metre diameter crater in an instant. Fragments of the meteorite have been found around 4km from the rim. The crater floor is around 20 metres below the surrounding plain, however was originally some 100 metres deeper. The forces involved can only be imagined as we explored the rim and crater.
The first indication things weren't going well was when I heard an unusual knock over a particularly rough section of road on our way to Wolfe Creek Crater. When it returned at another rough patch, I pulled over and checked the roof rack. I had shuffled tyres around after our last puncture and thought the tyre on the rack might have shifted. I was pleased that all my lashings were secure, and the Aldi roof basket was still as solid as a rock, but when I gave the rack itself a shove, I was alarmed to see the whole mount lift off the roof. The bolt securing it to the roof had sheared.
It came off in my hands Mum... honest!
The fix would be to remove the rack from the base, drill out the bolt and find another one to fit. I had all the tools required, and probably a bolt too. The first step though would be to find the key to unlock and remove the rack from the base.
That is where it all started to go really wrong. After checking the key rings, then the glove box and centre console I realised that the keys for the roof rack were probably still at home somewhere. Bugger. There was nothing else to do but put the spare wheel on the other roof rack and with the judicious use of an occy strap hold the broken foot down and hope it would hold to Alice Springs.
The following morning we hit the road and started our journey down the Tanami. The roof rack had stopped its dreaded knock and I hoped we could sort our a permanent fix at Alice. Things were looking up again. It was time to start taking in the scenery!
The road was mostly in good condition. There were corrugations, but none were as bad as the road to Mitchell Plateau, or even the road to Wolfe Creek. With a long way to go, and tyres down a little, I was poking along at 80km an hour taking it all nice and easy.
We hoped to camp along a little track to Mount Ptilotus (don't ask me how you say it), but when we found the track it became apparent that it was not a formed road. We followed the rough overgrown track for a short way, before realising that we were essentially cutting across country. We would be best served by returning to the main road and camping in a nearby gravel pit we had passed earlier.
When we finally shut down and got out of the car, I realised something was terribly amiss with Matilda. Our grease cap was missing on the right hand wheel. Jo couldn't quite appreciate why I was so concerned - all the damage appeared cosmetic (grease everwhere). It was when I got the wheel off the ground and wobbled it, she began to appreciate the importance of wheel bearings and what happens when yours have been ground away in a mixture of dust and grease.
Thankfully deep inside the bowels of Rocky I had a set of wheel bearings, and new grease. I even had bought a set of grease caps - but they were the wrong size. I just hoped I could replace the bearings and find a substitute grease cap to get us to Alice Springs. We had around 600km to go, most of it no better than what we had been down. If I could get just get us to town, Matilda would be treated with a new set of bearings and brake shoes. Just another 600km...
New bearings in, and replacement grease cap tested for size
Armed with a new packet of baby wipes, and a few tools I set to work and soon had the new bearings installed. The biggest problem was how to stop the dust getting in and destroying the bearings. I was hunting around for an old tin or something when Jo offered up one of our fine drinking cups. Salvation. I would have given her a kiss if she'd have let me near her at the time - but as I was covered in filthy grease and red dirt she high-tailed it before I could say thanks!
I soon had it all back together and began the massive job of putting everything away and getting my hands clean. We determined the following day we would check the repair every fifteen minutes on our journey south. All part of the adventure. But I had a new surprise waiting for me in the morning.
Around 5am I realised that I had forgotten to remove a piece of tape I had used to hold the brake magnet in place. I hoped I could reach it and remove it without disassembling my previous nights handiwork. Of course I couldn't - but as I was getting everything ready to pull off the new wheel and bearings and put them all back on again, I noticed that Rocky was sitting at a funny angle.
Yes, we had scored a flat tyre. In our attempt to get to Mount Ptilotus, a small stick had staked our tyre. At least I already had the jack out! It was soon changed, and everything re-stowed and the baby wipes all but used up trying to get the grease off my hands.
So this time we left rather cautiously. Checking the grease cap and bearings every fifteen minutes initially, I was pleased to note that everything was operating normally. We were on the way again, and I was more than a little relieved. Every kilometre we made towards Alice was a kilometre won in my books, when we came across a very sad camper on the side of the road.
This camper had basically destroyed its left wheel bearing. It was a sad sight, some 400km out from Alice Springs signifying some family's terrible plight in trying to organise a tow or parts to fix it. This could so easily have been us! We drove the next half our in silence thanking our lucky stars.
We toyed with camping at Mount Doreen, just off the road, but as we had made better than expected time, we settled for lunch instead. We enjoyed checking out the old homestead and some of the old relics lying around. it reminded us of Koonalda in the Nullarbor.
With limited places to camp after Mount Doreen, we continued on to Tilmouth Well, just 200km on sealed road from Alice Springs. It was time for a long hot shower. We weren't game to claim victory on the Tanami just yet, but we couldn't help but feel the worst of it may be behind us.
We shouldn't have been so sure. It got worse, much worse.
We enjoyed a wonderful night at Tilmouth Well, meeting an intrepid bunch of retired sailors from Lake Macquarie who were taking their land yacht on a voyage up the Tanami Track. I had to admire their tenacity and determination to even get here, but I fear the real challenges of their voyage were ahead of them. As were ours.
We had a relaxed lazy morning before getting on the road much later than our normal time. We estimated we would make to town in time for lunch. We were still cautious about my repair on the right hand wheel, and were checking it regularly. It was on one of those checks that my heart sank to my boots when I saw the left hand grease cap (other side) was missing also and the mangled remains of the bearing were smoking. Our left hand wheel bearing had failed - and this time spectacularly.
There was nothing else to do but break out the tools, and get stuck into replacing the bearings. Unfortunately the higher speed on the black top resulted in the bearing being totally destroyed and taking out the brake magnet to boot. The remains of the inner bearing were fused to the stub axle, and try as I might I could not remove them. I was able to get the remains about half way off the axle before my hammer broke. A cold chisel didn't succeed either, and as I started to hacksaw off the remains of the bearing, a police car pulled up.
The Constable offered a ride into town so we could organise a tilt tray - but we hadn't located all the roadside assistance membership numbers by that time. I said if we couldn't get going, we would unhitch the camper and drive the 40km to phone range to organise a tow. He suggested that would not be a good idea. Hmm. What to do. I had one more idea up my sleeve that I was willing to try.
The drum had been chewed out by the fragmented old bearing. The only option left was to try and force the new bearings onto the stub, and see if we couldn't get the drum back on and tight enough to last the 60km remaining to Alice Springs. Decision made, I packed as much grease as possible into the bearings, and rammed the drum back on. It all seemed firm enough. It was then time to install my special grease cap... before putting the wheel back on and holding my breath.
It was time to commence a slow trip to Alice Springs. 30km/hr for five minutes revealed all well. Another five minutes and it seemed to be holding. We continued on our way, checking the bearings frequently and edging closer and closer to our destination.
Eventually we made it to the Stuart Highway and mobile phone range. Here the traffic was much heavier, and we continued edging closer to town in the breakdown lane with hazards flashing. If you could hold your breath for three hours, I would have, as we continued to crawl to Alice Springs. We cheered at the 80km/hr speed limit signs, then the 60km/hr signs. But all was not well. The wheel was starting to wobble and I feared it didn't have much more life left in it. Did we stop for a photo at the 'Welcome to Alice Springs' sign? Not on your nelly! We might do it tomorrow.
As we drove into town, we found we couldn't find a caravan park in town with a powered site available for Friday night. We also couldn't get hold of any mechanic workshop. We finally got hold of a Repco shop attendant, who recommended a mechanic, however he said that it was a public holiday today in town and that any one still open would be knocking off in a few minutes.
We had not planned that well at all, coinciding our visit with the Alice Springs Show.
We had hoped we could book a powered site for the weekend (to run the heater as it was decidedly chilly at night), and then on Monday take Matilda in to be repaired. As it stands we ended up booking in to a cabin with a heater and amazing luxuries such as an electric kettle and a toaster. It seems massive and wonderfully comfortable with a little ensure and kitchenette. What more do you need!
Matilda held together long enough to get here, and hopefully on Monday we will find a mechanic who will be able to fit us in sometime next week for a new set of wheel bearings and brake shoes, as we had intended all along. I guess we should have repacked the bearings after finishing the Gibb River Road after all - we just had so much to do!
For now though it is time to celebrate arriving in the Red Centre!
Hooray that you all made it to Alice!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Noan! We are extremely happy to be here :)
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