A new set of wheels - but the Amarok is staying

With our little Subaru Outback starting to become a never ending run of little (and big) maintenance challenges, we knew it was time to consider a new(er) set of wheels sooner or later.  With the decision to upgrade, came an opportunity to get a seven seater - for the versatility it offers us living out of town.

Today we bought a 2010 Challenger - to sit in the carport alongside the Amarok.  It is likely to replace our tired Outback that has a hard 280 000km on the clock - however we may just continue to run it until it stops completely.

The vital statistics for the new set of wheels are:

• MY2010 Mitsubishi Challenger LS
• Nudge Bar
• Tow Bar
• Side Steps
• 7 Seats
• 81 000km

The Challenger's main job will be doing the school run - although on occasion that does need 4WD and negotiation of a water crossing! 

The Simpson Desert - 2016

It was an exciting moment filling up with fuel at Mount Dare.  This is the last fuel stop before entering the Simpson Desert.  We really were not sure what to expect as this was our first crossing - and all of us were looking forward to the next six or seven nights.  We filled the fuel tanks to the brim, bought our Desert Passes and enjoyed a last ice cream.  It wasn't long and we were on the road to our first camp - Dalhousie Springs.

Dalhousie Springs is an oasis on the western edge of the desert.  The artesian water is a delightful 39 degrees, and we spend the best part of a full day lolling about in this paradise.  The three boys delighted in playing the in water, jumping out and enjoying the novelty of cooling in the breeze before warming up again in the water.  

A creek, a pan, a fortune might be found.

With a rare weekend free, we accepted an invitation with geologist friends to try and find our fortune at a public fossicking area somewhere near Tumbarumba, west of the Snowy Mountains.  We were lured not only by the promise of rubies and sapphires, but also a picturesque camp beside a pleasant creek.

And what a wonderful weekend we had - with plenty of reward for our efforts.

We were all keen to get out under canvas again.  The boys were eager to sleep in their swags, and soon found a spot that wasn't too lumpy.  The little supervisor (aka Dylis) was thrilled that our camp was in State Forest - so she could come along for the fun too.

Siding Springs and the Warrumbungles Grand High Tops Walk

The Warrumbungle Range rises from the surrounding plains with an unmistakable silhouette.  On the peak of one of the mountains is the unmistakable dome of the Siding Springs Observatory.  This 3.9m mirror telescope is one of several observatories on the peak of the mountain, and has contributed to some startling discoveries since it was opened in 1974.  It is open during the day, and we all learnt just a little into the amazing world of space, black holes, nebulas and dark matter. 

 

A couple of nights later we enjoyed a stargazing tour down the road at the Warrumbungle Observatory.  With our host named Peter Starr, we knew we were in good hands, and we spent an hour and a half observing Saturn, distant nebulas (star factories), other galaxies and even more.  Peter used to work at Siding Springs Observatory, and explained that the site was chosen for a number of reasons. 

• The high elevation reduced the amount of atmosphere thereby increasing clarity
• The mid latitude location allows the full southern sky to be observed
• The area has few cloudy nights

The Pilliga Forest took us all by surprise.

From Lightning Ridge, we headed south, looking forward to spending four nights in the Warrumbungles... but like all good plans, it changed for the better with a diversion to the Pilliga Forest.

We drove south through Walgett and Coonamble - all productive country, with crops of wheat ready for harvest.  The ominous storm clouds brewing explained the urgency in the movement of harvesting machinery on the highways.  There was rain forecast - plenty of it - and the farmers were desperate to get their crops off the paddocks before it hit.

At Coonabarabran we restocked, and were just about to head down the back road to the Warrumbungles, when I suggested we head to the Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre at Barandine.  Our last house was made of Cypress Pine from the Pilliga, and we had always wanted to see the country where the timber had come from.  It was a great decision.

Lightning Ridge - after we re-create a bet at Walgett

From Inverell we meandered west, pausing at the historic town of Bingara.  Whilst the famous cafe at the Roxy theatre has closed, we were very interested in the food garden being created on the town common.  This vision of a productive common providing enough food to feed the community is only in its infancy, but we were inspired by the people of Bingara.  Whilst our own plans are much more modest, we learnt a lot wandering around the young groves, and will be sure to visit again to check on future progress.

We enjoyed a night at Glacial Rocks - all taking turns under the little water fall.  It was really peaceful to be camping with just ourselves.  The river provided a melodious backdrop to our evening camp, and we could easily have spent more time in the picturesque place.    Before we left, we all placed a small stone in our pockets - in preparation for our next stop.

Reunited we fossick at Inverell - and I don't have to dig!

With Rocky fully repaired and ready for action, we were keen to return to Armidale and get camping. It was time to also get fossicking again. Before the week was out, I learnt a much easier way to fossick...

But some things are more important, like friends and nice beaches.  So after a short stopover with Jo's parents in Caloundra (thank you again for your wonderful hospitality), we diverted to the magical town of Byron Bay.  We were all looking forward to catching up with some dear friends - and a dip in the beautiful water was a bonus.

The weather was absolutely perfect, and we spent ages splashing about in the waves.  You can see why this is such a popular place with tourists, and jealously guarded by the locals.

We came back to Armidale to a repaired Amarok.  The dealer in Tamworth had replaced the CV boot and the air conditioner compressor.  Shane from Opposite Lock had picked up Rocky to replace our broken shock absorber.  Mum and Dad had then picked up Rocky and brought it back to their place.  I was really impressed with the team from Opposite Lock in Tamworth - who were extremely easy to deal with over the phone, and would happily recommend them.

An ominous start - I should have been a mechanic!

Whilst the family was enjoying a couple of weeks on the Sunshine Coast with their grandparents, I had been doing a couple of odd jobs at home.  My main job was to deliver Rocky and Matilda to the family, ready in all respects for a new camping adventure.  Sadly things started to go off the rails not long after departure.

I had decided to get on the road as soon as I woke up.  Thankfully I checked my clock, and decided that 12.30am was too early, so I rolled over and next thing I knew it was 4.15am.  Fifteen minutes later I was on the road, but it soon became apparent that all was not well.  The car was lacking power - more so than I expected.  Could it have been the new tyres being a slightly bigger size?  So many thoughts were running through my mind, but when I was unable to hold sixth gear going downhill, I knew I had to stop and  investigate. 

The camper's right hub was hot, really really hot.  But it was still full of grease, and Yass was not far away.  I decided to push on to Yass, and utilise a quiet street and a street light for further investigation.  As I pulled up, I was just a little nervous.  It was the Saturday morning of the long weekend, and if I didn't have the parts to fix it, I could be in for a long wait.

It turned out the brake shoes were binding (could it have been that hard stomp on the brakes for the kangaroo earlier?).  The bearings were fine - the grease hadn't cooked off entirely, so I repacked the bearings, re-adjusted the brakes and crossed my fingers.  I might have grumbled a little about the mechanic who supposedly checked the brakes and bearings when fitting the new tyres a couple of months ago...

If I knew what was coming, I should have turned around and gone home.  

Investigation by streetlight and head torch

Getting the camper ready to travel again....

In little more than a blink of an eye, school holidays are again upon us.  Whilst I cannot believe how quickly three terms have gone by since we returned home after 12 months on the road, these holidays see us hit the road again with our faithful travelling companions, Rocky and Matilda.   With a couple of weeks to go until we get back on the road, it was a good idea to pull everything out and check it thoroughly.

We have only camped once since we have been back.  We have largely neglected the camping gear for the past nine months.  For the most part it was pushed to the back of the shed and 'stored'.  Unfortunately other items have been dispersed or requisitioned for other projects.  Reassembling all the various bits and pieces has taken me longer than I thought.

It is a funny feeling pulling out the goods and chattels that we dragged around the country last year. Each item invokes a particular memory, such as the BBQ that made not only delicious roasts, but also baked scones with a roast meat flavour! Or finding the plastic drink cup that was used as an emergency dust cover on Matilda after the wheel bearings failed on the Tanami.

The ferocious dog watches on as I start reassembling the camping gear

Mainly it is amazing how a fresh pair of eyes makes everything look tired.  Our camp chairs, held together with bits of wire and fabricated bolts and which we promised to replace once we got home, still faithfully answer the call.  Likewise our bench seats with stylish gaffa tape highlights over bottom pinching splits, should have been put out with the rubbish.  But due to a shift in priorities, we haven't got around to replacing them.  

Where to next?

It is amazing how quickly life has returned to normal since our amazing adventure in 2014.  It has been wonderful to reconnect with friends and contribute again to our great little community.  Our lives have become full of the cycle or work, school, sport, cubs, and trying to implement some of the ideas we learnt in 2014 on our patch of dirt.  

And as happy as we are to be home, our big lap last year has left a mark on our souls.  

Could it be that we still have itchy feet?  There are still so many parts of this country that we want to explore in greater depth?  Or could it be that it is just so cold here in winter!

Either way, the other night we pulled the maps out from under Rocky's seat, and started dreaming again.

Mount Kosciuszko with kids - back on the road again

Little more than two months after coming home, unpacking everything and getting back into the swing of life - our feet started getting itchy again.  Now don't get me wrong, it is great being home, and we are right back into the swing of school, work and renovations (yes - we find plenty of ways to keep busy).  But we had one major challenge we wanted to complete. 

On our 12 month journey around Australia, we saw many Australian icons, swam under some fabulous waterfalls, and climbed some picturesque mountains.  There was one mountain that we didn't conquer on our trip, and it was nagging us.

It was time to head to the High Country and the Australian mainland's highest peak - Mount Kosciuszko.  (Australia's highest peak is actually Mawson Peak, part of active volcano Big Ben on Heard Island way south west of the continent)

There is no place like home

54 904km and 377 days after our departure, we returned home after our wonderful crazy adventure.  

On our journey we met many wonderful, inspiring and fascinating people. We were extremely fortunate to gain snippets into other worlds, from a mighty cattle station in the Territory, to remote Aboriginal communities. We saw nature at its best. We saw mankind’s insatiable appetite for resources literally moving mountains. We laughed and cried with other travellers. We laughed and cried with each other.

Home at last... including a very happy pooch :)

We swam with sea-lions, dolphins and freshwater crocodiles. We snorkelled in natural aquariums teeming with exotic sea life, plunged into deep rock pools carved by crystal clear waters, wallowed in pristine lakes and stole kisses under remote cascading water-falls.

And our journey changes, reflections after a year on the road.

Faced with the prospect of heavy rain (severe thunderstorms),  access routes being cut by rising river crossings and several days waiting for things to dry out again, we held a family discussion.  We had been looking forward to heading down to Main Range National Park, but it looked as if the Park would bear the brunt of the oncoming storms.  At times like this, the resident meteorologist (aka Weather Witch) cast the deciding vote.

We took the easy option, packed up in the sun with everything dry and returned to Mama and Pa's.

All packed up

It was a time to pause for a moment as this decision would mark a turning point in our adventure to date.  

The Majestic Bunya Mountains

With Rocky sporting a new rear window, a dashing silver duco (amazing what a wash will do) and four refreshed passengers, we embarked for a few days in the Bunya Mountains, a couple of hours east of the Sunshine Coast.  It was great to be back on the road again, and we wound our way past the Glasshouse Mountains on our way to the Bunyas.  The road became steeper and signs started warning that the road ahead was unsuitable for buses, trucks and caravans - just our kind of adventure.

The hills became steeper and steeper - but thankfully we had plenty in reserve as Rocky sailed up them in second gear.  We soon had risen over 1000 metres above sea level, and paused to take in the view at Fisher's Lookout.

Bunya Mountains - On top of the world

Bunya Mountains - even Rocky made it!

Recoup, Repair and Recharge on the Sunshine Coast

We rolled off the ferry from Fraser Island with sand in every possible place - and if we thought we were bad - the car was worse.  Our garbage bag rear window was more than up for sedate trips around the island, but the highway revealed a monotonous drone - reminiscent of our days owning a soft top Jeep Wrangler.  We needed a place to stop, unpack and wash everything - and decided to return a surprise on Mama and Pa who lived just down the road.

Thankfully they were home - and graciously allowed us in.  For the next few days we appreciated luxuries such as hot running water, inside bathrooms, comfortable couches, and a library of new books to read.  Mama and Pa thoroughly spoilt us allowing us to catch up on a few other odd jobs.

How good is a couch and a new book!

The first to do was to give Rocky and Matilda a thorough wash.  They had received the special underbody wash at Rainbow Beach - which was a good start, but it was by no means sufficient.  After the wash, the Little Helpers were each armed with a can of WD-40 and sent underneath Rocky and Matilda with instructions to sqirt anything that looked like it might need it.  Two empty cans later, it seemed we were starting to get ontop of the exterior.

Fraser Island - Part 2 - The Stunning Inland

We had enjoyed our time at the beautiful camp site at Dundaburra, but it was time to venture inland and explore some more of Fraser Island.  With low water being not long after breakfast, we packed up in the morning and made our way back south on 75 Mile Beach.

One of the most stunning creeks on the east coast is Eli Creek.  Pure fresh water flows in large volumes along this sandy creek bed into the Coral Sea.  Popular with tourists we were the first car of the morning to pull up near the creek - and for a good 20 minutes had this magic piece of paradise to ourselves.

Eli Creek - delightful

We walked up the boardwark a couple of hundred meters, and entered the water.  Being the first of the morning, the creek was pristine, and jungle perch scooted out of our way as we floated down towards the mouth.  

Fraser Island - Part One - The Rugged East Coast

Fraser Island, or K'gari as it was known long before time began by the Butchulla people, is a magnificent sandy island that is nearly all world heritage listed National Park.  There are almost no sealed roads on the island, meaning the only way to get around it is by boat, or four wheel drive.  Half of the adventure is in getting here - with soft sand on the beach landing the first hurdle.  Rocky pulled us through the soft sand to the firmer stuff closer to the waters edge, and before we knew it, we were on the ferry heading on our way across to K'gari.

On the Manta Ray ferry

The easiest 'road' to drive on the island is the eastern beach.  Whilst you can drive it at high tide, the soft sand makes it heavy going.  We elected to wait until a couple of hours before low water, meaning we would easily clear Hook Point and then be able to drive up to our camp at Dundaburra, about three quarters of the way up the eastern beach towards Indian Head.  Our spirits were high as we rounded the point and started making our way north.  The sand was hard, and we cruised up comfortably at around 60km/hr, well under the signposted 80km/hr.  This is a gazetted road, and normal road rules apply, despite the challenges of surf, fishermen, creeks, washouts and swales in the sand.

The famous 75 mile beach - all hooked up and looking forward to our next few days

Due to the tides, we arrived in camp reasonably late and set up quickly.  The beautiful shaded camp-site was fenced, meaning we wouldn't have to worry about Dingos around camp.  Goannas were another story, meaning we still had to follow our usual food and rubbish pack away routine.

Hervey Bay and a night at Inskip Point

After our adventure at Kroombit Tops National Park, we were looking forward to returning to the coast.  Sea breezes by the sand was what it was all about, however we found out that there was plenty to see on our way to Hervey Bay.

After morning tea at Mount Perry we continued on towards the coast on this road less travelled.

Not far our of Mount Perry we turned off on the unimaginatively named Tunnel Road.  We soon found ourselves on the old railway embankments heading towards the Boolboonda Tunnel - the longest unsupported man made tunnel in the southern hemisphere.  I was nervous that we wouldn't fit through the tunnel, being a rather broad car, with plenty on the roof.  I was worried that if we couldn't fit, I might not be able to turn around with the trailer on.  I needn't have worried - a huge F250 ute with a tinny on top had just come through - meaning we would have plenty of room

And we did.

Boolboonda Tunnel Entrance

As we drove through the tunnel, we paused to look at the Bent Wing Bats that make this place their home.  The hand hewn rock was full of crevices and nooks of all shapes and sizes - perfect place to make your home - except for all the tourists driving through!

Kroombit Tops and Beautiful Betsy

After being told that Kroombit Tops had received 750mm of rain over the past three days, I must admit to feeling that we would not be able to visit the tableland on this trip.  That said, it did seem like an unbelievable figure - after all it is more than our annual average rainfall at home, and there was no evidence of widespread flooding.

Our camp hosts suggested we drop in on the National Parks base nearby and ask them directly.  We did, and were told that a crew had been up in the park the previous day, and all tracks were definitely open!  There was no mention of biblical downpours, and I believe that our information source may have made a error involving the placement of a decimal point.

So we went.

If you haven't heard of Kroombit Tops, we hadn't either until we were talking with a couple from Gladstone a two of weeks earlier.  Of similar geological formation to Blackdown Tableland, it too was opened up for logging from the 1960's until 1995. Its cool tableland provides the northernmost range for many southern dwelling plants and animals, as well as the southernmost range for many northern dwelling plants and animals.  It really is a unique place to visit, and we were looking forward to heading up there ourselves.

Getting there was half the fun.  We wound north from Cania Gorge, on a dirt road that at times resembled a farm track.  There were numerous creek crossings, farm gates and cattle as we traversed this isolated part of the country. 

The drive in had plenty of gates

Agnes Waters, Deepwater National Park and Cania Gorge

We thoroughly enjoyed our four nights at Agnes Waters.  It was supposed to be a quiet rest time savouring the cool of the coast.  After the weekend passed, we had the campsite in Deepwater National Park to ourselves and things were becoming really peaceful.  

Of course the beach was glorious, but we decided to spend a couple of mornings in town visiting the library and getting our tyre repaired.  

In-between catching up on school at the library, we manged to try out a few new moves down at the beach.  We have lugged these boards since home, but they hadn't been used for a long time.  After taking about a hundred photos on the GoPro camera, I settled on these couple as the best shots of a couple of glorious days in the sun and the surf.

 

Surfs up!