Wednesday 8 January 2014

Russell Falls, Mount Field National Park and the Gordon Dam

After leaving Strahan, we headed east via the Lyell Highway.  We had planned to stop at every lookout and walk to Nelson Falls, but a stomach bug and inclement weather saw us hightail it east.  After a resupply at New Norforlk, we headed to Mount Field National Park.  The Little Fisherman was been desperate to wet a line, and at Mount Field National Park, we found ourselves camped directly on the banks of the Tyenne River.  The lines were quickly rigged and in no time at all, we settled into an afternoon of untangling lines from branches and re-hooking lines after snags.  The trout were definitely there, but they were too smart for us on this occasion!

At last - The Little Fisherman gets to test out his gear (and in so doing get rid of most of his hooks)

Mount Field National Park is Tasmsnias oldest and most popular park, and home to the iconic Russell Falls. We found excellent campsites, clean showers and so much more than the waterfalls.  On the short walk to Russell Falls, we came across the massive Stump of a 250 year old Swamp Gum (or Mountain Ash if you're Victorian), one of the tallest flowering plants in the world.


Massive Swamp Gum or Mountain Ash stump and log
The tree was felled deliberately nearly 50 years ago for the safety of visitors.  And it must have been a massive tree in its prime.

A little further on we came across a delightful grove of tree ferns, and one of the few places you can see glow worms at night without entering a cave.  Unfortunately due to strong winds, this was closed before we could experience this.
The Glow Worm Glenn

The Russell Falls were as spectacular as promised, so, along with everyone else there, I tried to take a better photo than all the tourist brochures. Of course I have the best looking models around, so I felt sorry for Tourism Tasmania having to compete with me ;)

Eat your heart out Tourism Tasmania!

Just beautiful - Russell Falls

We then decided to head back into the wilderness and visit the Gordon Dam.  The drive to Strathhordon winds through State Forest, however the very size of the dam is very apparent as we start to glimpse Lake Pedder.  We ducked down to the shoreline for a closer look.  It was too cold and windy to hang around for long - but the tree stumps provided a stark reminder of what was sacrificed in the name of 'clean' hydro-electricity.


The dam wall itself is an engineering marvel, over 140 metres high - and if you're game - open for abseiling.  Due to the curved shape, the majority of the abseil is off the wall and had no interest for me at all.  What is incredible to think is that this narrow wall, holds back such a massive volume of water - some 12.4  million MegaLitres!!!

It may be tall - but it is tiny compared to the volume of water held back by it!

From the viewing platform - we went down to the top of the dam wall for a closer look
We walked onto the dam wall and looked downstream.  The valley below was pristine, of such indescribable beauty that we paused and realised that where we were standing would have been much the same.  I think we were both extremely happy to know that the proposed Lower Gordon dam on the Franklin/Gordon Rivers was never constructed - and the ensuing legal battle confirmed that it never will - thus protecting that forest forever.  It seems hydro - electricity isn't as environmentally friendly as I have been lead to believe.  

No photo I could ever take would do justice to the valley downstream of the Gordon Dam
We drove back to Mount Field having glimpsed a little more of the magnificent south west wilderness of Tasmania, and had a hankering for more.  The glacial carved mountains provide an impressive backdrop for this part of the island, and we paused many times for photos of the magnificent Sentinals and other ranges.
The Sentinel Range

The Amarok - next to some much older rocks!
We came back to camp only to find we had to move from our idyllic spot as some incredible winds had brought branches down in the camping area - thankfully without injuring anyone.  The wind was still incredibly strong, so we decided to head to a place that sounded like it would provide us with the shelter we needed... Snug.  It was here we were soon to find that Snug didn't necessarily live up to its name!

2 comments:

  1. I love Jo's photos. Great to see all your adventures.

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  2. Thanks Bel, Although you might not believe it - all of these photos were taken on my iPhone (with a few great little apps)... Jo's are still all on the SLR - and we need to sit down sometime and upload them. They make these ones look ordinary :)

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