The next part of our adventure was not particularly far from Darwin as the crow flies, but it is a long 400km journey by road. Almost half of the drive is on an unsealed corrugated track, littered with burnt out cars. We were visiting a part of Australia that is far from the tourist circuit - indeed it is an area often singled out by the politicians and media outlets for all the wrong reasons.
Unsure what to expect, we were nervous about making the journey here. I was concerned for not just our safety, but for the impression this place would leave on our boys.
I came away with a strong feeling of hope.
Our destination was a former mission that was established in the 1930's, and relocated to its present location in 1942. It became a meeting place for many people, with land assigned for each family group within the mission boundaries. This has created an extremely diverse community undergoing a massive cultural change, and this upheaval hasn't always gone to plan. Our destination was Wadeye (Port Keats).
I wont pretend to even attempt to understand the challenges or issues here, suffice to say they are extremely complex. There is no simple solution.
We were visiting Chris and Emily, family friends who had taken a two year contract to teach at the school here. They are 18 months into their contract, and are considering extending their contract for another two year period. Chris and Emily played the part of gracious hosts, tour guides, chefs, and translators. We were extremely fortunate to have such wonderful friends to visit here, who went out of their way to ensure we all got the most out of our visit.
The road in was littered with burnt out cars - because the cost to recover broken down vehicles usually exceeds the vehicle's value.
Chris and Emily lived in in a new street, where every house was surrounded by a large wire fence, the carport secured in a massive cage, and the houses alarmed. It was a confronting sight after our many months in camp-grounds where our personal security could best be described as lax.
Housing for some of the school and other staff
Saturday morning and Chris took us north to a coastal camp area. Our hosts for the day were Barbara and John. The red cliffs contrasted with the white sandstone bed rock and the mud flats, providing a picturesque backdrop. We spent a while checking out the rock pools for mud crabs (with no success), before heading up river to try our hand at fishing.
We set some crab pots and then got out the fishing rods to try our hand. The Little Helper wasn't really interested in the fishing game, and soon was playing with Demizean and Ginny. They had a great time burying each other in the sandy bank, much to everyone's amusement.
It wasn't too much later that the Little Fisherman gave a shriek of joy when his fishing line became taught. He started reeling in the line, and was rewarded with a nice Bream. He was thrilled to bits with the first fish he had caught that was big enough to actually eat! For the record - it was delicious!
The Little Helper hauled in the crab nets and was the catcher of two good size mud crabs. One of our nets had been carefully poached by a large reptilian creature - but thankfully he or she didn't seem to be around when we recovered that net - from a long way up the bank.
Sunday morning required an early start, and The Little Fisherman was chomping at the bit to better his previous day's efforts. Whilst The Little Helper enjoyed a sleep in with Mum, Chris' boat was put in the water and we made our way out to a secret fishing hole.
It seemed that in no time at all, the fish were on, and The Little Fisherman was thrilled to bits. It was simply the best fishing I have ever been a part of, and for the next couple of hours it seemed at least one of the rods was being reeled in with another fish on the line. Thankfully the pace reduced as the tide completed its run out, and we could also relax for a while too. Over the course of the day, we hauled in plenty of Finger Mark Snapper, a magnificent Rock Cod, a couple of Lemon Sharks, a Bull Shark and numerous Cat Fish.
The Little Fisherman returned home exhausted, but elated with his catch. He had caught more fish today than in the rest of his life combined. Whilst we had returned plenty of fish to the water, we had more than enough for dinner that night too. That afternoon I spent the afternoon learning how to fillet fish - who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks!
Monday dawned and we headed to school. We were joining Chris and his students for the day - on country or out in the field. We met six of his students who had chosen to come along for the day, and soon we were out on the coast, exploring some of the historic sites in the area. Piled into the back of a Troopy, everyone was a bit nervous to start with, but as we were 'family,' the local lads and our boys soon relaxed and before long were having a great time.
English is not the first language here - so we learnt a few local words. Thankfully the local lads were able to understand a lot more, with Assistant Teacher Leon able to translate the more complex stories. Whilst there wasn't really a stolen generation here, there is an almost 'lost generation' where drugs and alcohol have destroyed interest in traditional culture. The older people in the community have made an effort to educate the school kids in their culture and law, and it is wonderful to see that initiation ceremonies for boys and girls are returning after an absence of many years.
Just idyllic - paradise
Chris took us to some of the local sites - many requiring permission from the local custodians. We felt honoured and privileged to be able to share this special part of Australia for our short visit here. The tropical waters looked delightful, but they are not safe for swimming.
The boys in Chris' class are basically senior school. The course is practical and hands on. The aim is to keep the students engaged, by keeping their education practical. It is not like schooling in the majority of schools in Australia, and I couldn't help but admire the dedication of the teachers here who immerse themselves into the experience and give these kids the best chance possible.
Rock Paper Scissors!
We had two days at school with the senior students. They were a real delight for us, and played beautifully with our boys. It was a real pleasure to spend a bit of time with them, and hear some of their stories. Their stories are not for me to tell here, but I would like to thank them all for sharing a bit of their world with us.
We had two days at school with the senior students. They were a real delight for us, and played beautifully with our boys. It was a real pleasure to spend a bit of time with them, and hear some of their stories. Their stories are not for me to tell here, but I would like to thank them all for sharing a bit of their world with us.
Our time in this community was only possible because of the generous invite from Chris and Emily to come and join them out here. Chris was able to explain many of the challenges facing this community - and his insight was fascinating. Thank you to Chris and Emily for sharing your home with us, and making this all possible.
We have travelled around a great deal of this country by now - and whilst most of our touring has been to the must see tourist attractions, this adventure off the beaten track has really opened our eyes up to a part of this country that is often swept under the carpet. It shouldn't be. I think our visit to Wadeye will be with us for a long time - and that is not a bad thing.
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