The Pelican Lakes in the Valley of the Lagoons was a completely unexpected change in scenery from the dry savannah woodland. The headwaters of the Burdekin River, this area was explored by Leichardt in 1845.
We slowly crawled down the range and did a quick shop at Ingham, before we headed up a different valley. Our destination was Wallaman Falls, the largest single drop in Australia at 267-279 metres depending on which book you read. We set up camp late in the afternoon - bush camping at its best.
The campground is nestled in some of the oldest rainforest on earth - and we met some of the local residents after the sun went down. The cheeky marsupial mouse was a little more timid than the bandicoots, but managed to find its way into our almost zipped up bread bag! We have tried so hard not to feed any of the animals at our camps, but sometimes they help themselves!
The next day we checked out the falls. In a word they were simply breathtaking. The gorge the creek has carved has to be seen to be believed - being a massive sheer sided valley almost 300 metres below the escarpment. The sheer scale cannot be represented by any photograph. This is one place worth visiting.
We contemplated taking the 3km return walk to the base of the falls, but with a couple of sore feet in the family, we decided our afternoon would be best spent relaxing around camp. The pool at the base of the falls sure looked inviting for a dip - but chatting with the Ranger earlier, he said that the rocks around the pool are extremely slippery, and swimming was strongly discouraged.
Not to worry - I set to work on some running repairs on my trusty Akubra. It only has to last until Christmas (I hope... hint hint). This old Cattleman Akubra already had a summer or two under its belt when we started this trip - and being a sentimetal fella, I am sure it will be still shading me whne we finish. It also proved the worth and versatility of the sailmakers sewing kit I had bought 'just in case' for any repair jobs I might need to make to Matilda.
The other entertainment of the afternoon was a large goanna trying to steal the dinner of a backpacker couple. The goanna was hilarious, making good ground towards their table when their backs were turned. His discovery was marked by two simultaneous events. Sven and Helga would leap onto the picnic table, whilst Helga shrieked "Nein" in a voice I wasn't entirely convinced was designed to intimidate... The goanna would then retreat - just to the base of the tree and he would sit there and contemplate his next move, which was just as often another run at their dinner whereby the entire show was repeated.
The goanna contemplating his next run
In the afternoon we checked out the pools upstream of the falls. Reputedly full of turtles and platypus, we saw only turtles in the waters on our stroll. The platypus are extremely shy, and I fear the exuberance of our boys kept them in their burrows for a little longer that afternoon.
Our two nights at Wallaman Falls had been thoroughly enjoyable, but it was time for us to hit the road. We made our way slowly down the range and returned to Ingham where we shopped. The best part about shopping around morning tea time is we can often sneak a four pack of ice creams into the groceries... even better when they're on special!
We intending camping somewhere south of Townsville, but our handy camping app, Wikicamps was decidedly short on options that sounded appealing. We did stop for lunch at a free camp north of townsville on Saunders Beach - and it was almost good enough to stay.
Lunch at Saunders Beach - overlooking Halifax Bay
The campsite was just off the beach at a little park with a playground and toilets. It would have been a great spot for an overnight camp, but it would have left us with a big drive the following day. The vote was put to the boys and we decided to press on.
Magnetic Island in the distance...
We had a quick stop in Townsville at Jo's brother's place. It literally was a flying visit to top up our water tanks, and the kids took an opportunity to jump in the pool and play with Millie. Yes, Millie joined them in the pool too!
We will return to Townsville next week, and spend some more time in this beautiful city, but for now our journey continued south... or almost.
Our journey almost ends
Battling feirce headwinds we stopped for fuel at Ayr. Just as we were all getting back in the car, The Little Fisherman leapt out of the car like he had been stung by a stinging tree. It took a few moments to understand what the commotion was about - but he claimed a large huntsman spider had been seen on the back seat, fast disappearing down past the seatbelt buckles into the dark distant recesses underneath the seat,
It is at moments like these you realise how much stuff the kids have piled around them. After removing their stationary boxes, the loom bands and hats, we then began deeper excavation. First removing the fleecy blankets stowed behind the head rests, I then moved on to the Little Helper's menagerie of small stuffed animals. I hadn't realised how extensive our collection had become, but let's just say that if they were alive, I would have been able to open a zoo!
It was only then that I could pull back the seat, and remove the snatch strap, high vis vest and sand flag. There was the spider, lying on the tool bag... (No, before you comment, I don't hide anything like as much stuff behind the seat as the kids have on it!).
Thankfully the spider had been seen, verified and once removed, the journey could recommence.
The poor fellow has to find a new home...
Also for once the boy's agreed that perhaps they shouldn't leave the car doors open at campsites. It has only taken 306 days to get the message across!
With the absence of suitable camps, and plenty of adrenalin keeping everyone alert, we decided to push on to Airlie Beach and extend our stay here. We arrived around 5,30pm exactly 450km from Wallaman Falls, and at times like this we are thankfull that our camper is so quick and easy to set up. Less than an hour later we were all set up and tucking into dinner.
It has been a few years now since we have seen this town, and whilst we are looking forward to checking out the changes, the real attraction to this part of the world lies offshore. Oh gee darn, I guess we will have to do another boat trip :)
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