The Warrumbungle Range rises from the surrounding plains with an unmistakable silhouette. On the peak of one of the mountains is the unmistakable dome of the Siding Springs Observatory. This 3.9m mirror telescope is one of several observatories on the peak of the mountain, and has contributed to some startling discoveries since it was opened in 1974. It is open during the day, and we all learnt just a little into the amazing world of space, black holes, nebulas and dark matter.
A couple of nights later we enjoyed a stargazing tour down the road at the Warrumbungle Observatory. With our host named Peter Starr, we knew we were in good hands, and we spent an hour and a half observing Saturn, distant nebulas (star factories), other galaxies and even more. Peter used to work at Siding Springs Observatory, and explained that the site was chosen for a number of reasons.
- The high elevation reduced the amount of atmosphere thereby increasing clarity
- The mid latitude location allows the full southern sky to be observed
- The area has few cloudy nights
Whilst Peter's telescope wasn't anywhere near as big as the giant mirror up the hill, we were able to see a huge number of objects. With the faint light reaching our eyes being extremely weak, our eyes were only able to see the objects in black and white (using the rods in our retina's). This is why most observations are now made using sensors, and not the human eye. We don't get enough light to see the objects in colour.
Of course we couldn't let the kids know they were learning something!
We camped at the newly refurbished camping ground at Warrumbungle National Park. The park was extensively burnt in January 2013 - in a massive fire that destroyed many homes and buildings in the area. The observatories survived the fires - as many lessons from the loss of the Stromlo Observatory in the 2003 Canberra fires were put in place, proving humans can indeed learn from the mistakes of others..,.
The story of the Warrumbungles started around 17 million years ago when volcanic rock welled up under the Pilliga Sandstone. The trachyte and basalt flowed into spaces from vents deep within the earth. Whilst the volcanic activity stopped around 13 million years ago, wind and rain gently eroded the softer rock and ash to create the magnificent landscape we see today.
Our plan was to hike the Grand High Tops Circuit, looping back via Spirey Creek. It was a 15km walk, and we were a little out of practice. The weather was mild and we were eager to get on the trail.
The scars from the fire were apparent. Many of the big trees on the western slopes were dead, killed by the intense heat, but in the valleys and more protected areas, much of the Cypress Pine and eucalyptus trees had survived. The understory was a hive of activity with many shrubs and bushes competing with saplings creating a magical mosaic. We also saw some threatened brush wallabies in the park, taking advantage of the fresh pickings.
The walk to the base of the Grand High Tops was a steady climb, but as we came closer to the head of the valley, we knew we would have some serious climbing ahead of us. A magnificent staircase has long since replaced the goat track I remembered from my previous walk here. It was all we could do to keep up with the kids as they scampered up the stairs like mountain goats!
One of the most iconic formations in the park is the Breadknife. The walk passes alongside this formation, rising like a solid rock wall out of the ground.
The last part of the climb to the peak of the Grand High Tops is a bit of a scramble, but the kids loved this part of the walk even more. They hopped, skipped and jumped to the peak, where we all enjoyed a break and morning tea.
And the view - we loved the view...
One of the things I had forgotten to pack for this trip was a day pack - and for a 15km walk, they are kind of essential items. So I was carrying a couple of reusable shopping bags, filled with extra water, lunch and snacks. It wasn't particularly comfortable, but I took solace in the fact that my load was getting lighter as the day went on. Jo nearly fell off her perch when I produced a cuppa for both of us at the top of the Grand High Tops!
The view from this peak is spectacular in all directions - and we spent a fair bit of time here, admiring it all, before we started to make our way down the other side and across to Spirey Creek Valley.
The walk was gorgeous, with magnificent vistas opening up all the time, but I was also taken with some of the more fragile and dainty shrubs and bushes that lined the side of the track. Late October can be very hot in these parts, and is well past the main tourist season, but the flowers such as this fringe lily were out and were delightful.
The regrowth was vigorous and thick, in many places encroaching on the track. The skeletons of the dead trees reminded us all the time of the massive fire and its impact on the park. The density of the young trees in unsustainable, and will eventually return into balance in several hundred years, but for now it was a race to survive.
It took us a while, but eventually we crossed Spiery Creek for the last time and returned to the car-park. The walk was recommended at 5-6 hours. We had taken 7.5 hours, with plenty of rests and breaks. The first part of the walk was well formed, often paved and the steps to the base of the Breadknife were very much appreciated. The optional loop back to the car-park was much more uneven, but we appreciated not having to retrace our steps. This is listed as one of the top ten walks to do in NSW, and it lived up to our expectations.
We enjoyed a rainy rest day at Coonabarabran - even catching up on some schoolwork, before visiting the Warrumbungle Observatory. And then it seemed just as we were getting back in the swing of things, it was time to pack everything back up and start making miles home.
We spent several hours at the Bilby Blooms native plant nursery at Binnaway. http://www.bilbyblooms.com.au/Bilby_Blooms/Home.html. Annabel and Anthony were a delightful couple, with an amazing collection of plants and shrubs. Their encyclopaedic knowledge on all their plants was inspiring. We came away with a collection of various shrubs and plants to try out at our little farm of rock. I think we will be placing many more orders with Bilby Blooms into the future.
And then we were home. A very happy hound was thrilled to see us. She made sure she didn't let us out of her sight and got underfoot and made a nuisance of herself for the unpacking. But it didn't matter.
Our four weeks holiday during term time had been a resounding success. The kids actually were ahead of their class in their math's books, and we had given them some amazing lessons on the way. From learning how to adjust drum brakes, to an explanation of tides and gravity from an expert in astrophysics, all of us learnt something on this holiday. We also relished the opportunity to reconnect as a family.
For now though, it is time to catch up on the weeding in the garden, and get back to school and work. Oh, and more importantly, start planning the next adventure... :)
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