We left Arkaroola after taking our leave from Doug and Marg, knowing that we would be back. Our heading was south, but we first returned to Copely to buy some more Quandong Pies. After filling up with fuel, and pumping the tyres back up to highway pressures, we headed south. We had planned on enjoying a feral grill at the famous Prairie Hotel at Parachilna. Unfortunately the hotel was closed for the season and would be closed for another month. We were all just a little disappointed, and hungry, but I did jump out and grab a snap in front of the pub.
Prairie Hotel, Parachilna
There being not much else to Parachilna, we headed east and through the Parachilna Gorge to Blinman. With only 30km of dirt until sealed road again, we decided not to reduce tyre pressures, as feeding the mouths in the back was becoming a more urgent need. We enjoyed winding though the gorge, making it to Blinman in time for a late lunch. We jumped out of the car at Blinman all set to enjoy a Kangaroo Burger, when the Little Fisherman heard an onimous hissing sound. Yes, we had scored a flat - just outside of town. Bugger.
Our first flat of the trip at Blinman
Lesson learnt, I entertained the lunch crowd at the General Store and Pub whilst changing the tyre. Later I found a stick had punctured the tyre. After removing the stick and plugging the hole, I found another hole just a bit further around, caused by a rock. It seemed the stick had sealed its own hole! Five plugs later, it seemed to be holding air, and was put back into service.
Repairing the tyre - the more plugs the merrier
We booked into Rawnsley Park just south of Wikpena Pound for the night. Its chief attraction was the swimming pool, which made the little people very happy. It was a wonderful spot to relax and watch the sunset over the impressive Rawnsley Bluff
Sunset - Wilpena Pound (Rawnsley Bluff)
Of course the real photographer took some much better photos of the mountain...
The next day we decided to walk the 10km return climb to Wilpena Pound, via the same hills in the background. Hard work it was, but the view at the top was simply stunning, something the camera would never capture. The boys were amazing, powering up the slope, incredibly steep in places.
Morning tea, looking down Wilpena Pound
Hiking on top of an ancient world
Just a little sip before beginning the descent
A little steep but good fun
An afternoon spent catching up on schoolwork and in the pool soon refreshed the boys, and the next day we went for a little drive to some of the other attractions of the area.
Stokes Hill Lookout
We checked out some of the Aboriginal rock art in the area visiting Sacred Canyon. This ancient gorge has many symbols, put there, it is believed, by the spirits. It was a beautiful spot to walk through, and humbling to think how many generations of people have sat in the shade of the canyon walls.
Sacred Canyon
The boys stand near two circles representing a camp
The Flinders Rangers are also famous for their 4WD tracks, and we hired the key for the Rawnsley Park Drive. This drive took us through some amazing scenery, as we crawled up steep mountains and negotiated deep wash outs. Rocky handled it all with aplomb, however a shorter wheelbase and bigger tyres would have made it easier.
Looking towards Wilpena Pound
Making lunch on the road
It was a fantastic drive, with plenty of challenges for me, and plenty of views for the kids and Mum. Parts were very very steep, but that is part of he adventure. The boys (all three of us) loved it.
Checking out the track
Chase Range
South Australia could be renamed the State of Shattered Dreams. Nearly every country road has the ruins of a homestead silently crumbling into rubble. If only the walls could talk, I am sure they would tell a story. Perhaps because of the scarcity of timber, most homes in this area were built of stone - and leave a more lasting reminder of their presence. Closer to home, often the only clue to a former farming enterprise might be a fireplace, or a couple of fruit trees.
The State of Shattered Dreams
Perhaps none show the incredible hopes of a new land than Kanyaka Homestead. At its peak, it was a village, with an army of staff, and over 40 000 sheep shorn in the 1860s. Drought soon reduced the sheep numbers by over half, and the stocking rates destroyed the vegetation before the fragile soils literally blew away. This land may never recover from these few short years when hopes were high, but an understanding of the climate was low.
The old Shearers Quarters
We ended our time in the Flinders Ranges by spending several hours at Wadlata, a brilliant education and interpretive centre in Port Augusta. It shows the history of the landscape, including the Aboriginal and European settlement in a most interesting way.
The exhibits were engaging, and hands on. The kids loved hearing the aboriginal stories from the dreaming, especially the origin of the Two Pointers (stars Rigel Kentarus and Hadar if my navigation memory serves me correctly).
In all we had thoroughly enjoyed our time in the timeless Flinders Ranges. We had met some amazing people, seen some incredible vistas, and learnt about the way people have been living with this land for thousands of years. It is a four wheel drivers dream, with steep challenging tracks taking you to special places. There is so much to do here. We will be back.
For now though it wags time to continue our journey south to a part of Australia often bypassed in the dash across the country. Yes, we were heading to the Eyre Peninsula - and what a surprise we got when we slowed down and started to explore it.
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