From Kalgoorlie-Boulder, we decided to take a somewhat scenic route to Esperance, via a small town called Hyden - better known as the home of Wave Rock.
As with all good journeys, we enjoyed getting there as much as the rock itself, touring on small backroads that cross some of the largest remaining woodlands on earth. A woodland is more open than a forest, as the tree canopies do not touch - and these woodlands are unique for their size and diversity of species.
We stopped and explored McDermid Rock, learning about the precious waterholes or 'gnammas' that these rocks hold. Of great importance to the Aboriginal people, they are also havens for wildlife, and support some incredibly hardy vegetation.
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| On McDermid Rock |
This area lies on the largest granite belt in the world, giving rise to many of these rocks and their precious water storage. It also means that as granite erodes into sand, the surrounding soil is very sandy. It is also very low in nutrients, which is why it has never been cleared for agriculture and why it is such a unique woodland.
We camped for a couple of nights at the Breakaways, an incredibly picturesque camp literally in the middle of nowhere. A rest day turned into a massive clean up and sort out - but after nearly three months on the road, we threw out very little, meaning we are still carrying way too much, or we packed relatively well in the first place.
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| The Breakaways - Perfect for a rest / clean out day |
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| It really was beautiful sitting in this timeless land |
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| The boys loved exploring the area around The Breakways |
After sorting everything out and repacking slightly, we left the following morning looking forward to making it to Wave Rock for morning tea. As we neared Hyden we crossed the State Barrier Fence (Rabbit Proof Fence) and were stunned by the dramatic change in scenery. No where else have I ever seen such a stark contrast between natural woodlands and broad acre agriculture. The fence marks literally a line that divides the landscape and it is a visually arresting sight.
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| And into wheat country. |
Wave Rock is a beautiful wave form carved in ancient granite - along with the nearby quirky tafone (window) called Hippo's Yawn. It is one of the largest wave forms to be found on granite rock outcrops in the area - but isn't the only one. A photograph of the rock won a prize in New York in the 1960's, and was subsequently republished in National Geographic - and Hyden was put on the map.
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| We try our hand at 'Hanging 5' - OK, surfers we are not, but it was great |
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| Hippo's Yawn entertained the kids with lots of nooks to explore |
We wandered around the rock, including up above the 'wave' and the old dam that formed the Hyden water supply until recently. It was a fantastic place to explore, with lots of interpretive signs explaining the significance of the rock. It is so much more than just a cool 'wave'!
We then headed a little further north based on a friends recommendation to Mulka's cave. The story goes that Mulka was the son of a forbidden marriage. He was very tall, but was cross-eyed, meaning he was unable to hunt. Inside the cave, there are hundreds of hand stencils, some very high, said to be the hand of Mulka. Mulka turned his hand to an easier game - which was to bring great distress to his mother - but you'll have to go there to find out the whole story. Needless to say, this is an incredibly special place, and we felt honoured to be here.
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| Mulka's Cave |
The cave isn't particularly well represented in tourist brochures, and that s probably a good thing. We only went because it was recommended to us - but if you do head to Wave Rock, you must visit Mulka's Cave. Just please leave it as you find it - some of those hands prints have been there thousands of years.
After lunch on the main street at Hyden, checking out the local sculptures (and learning the story behind the sculptures), it was time to hit the road again.
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| Sculptures on the main street of Hyden |
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| Some odd things happen out here - perhaps it is the isolation? |
We tracked south east, to Ravensthorpe and after a top up, continued towards Esperance. The day was nearly done when we decided to pull off the road early and camp at a small bush camp. It was on the beach - and the boys were thrilled to be out of the car. It had been a massive day, starting in the Breakaways and ending up some 506km further along on our travels. The best part was, we were back on the coast! Before we knew it we would be checking out some beautiful beaches - and yes - we got bogged again!
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