Esperance is famous for its crystal clear waters, amazing white sands and friendly locals. It did not disappoint in any way at all.
After our run down from Hyden (Wave Rock) we enjoyed a couple of nights west of Esperance at Quagi Beach. Arriving just on dinner time is always an awkward time - but once again we had a curry sitting in the thermal cooker, so we were able to spend a few moments wandering around the campsite - before we found a great camp just a little out of the way down a sandy 4WD track. It overlooked the beach and had plenty of shelter... Perfect!
We enjoyed a great day wandering along the beach, and generally relaxing. The wind was up, and we enjoyed some board games under the protection of the awning. Quagi beach Campground is run by Esperance Shire Council, and cost us a grand total of $10 for our two night stay.
We resupplied in Esperance and were a bit disappointed the whole foreshore was undergoing renovation, as it is a very pleasant spot indeed. Full of food and water, we let down our tyres on the edge of town and drove to Cape Le Grand on the beach. This 22km beach shortcut knocks about 30km off the distance by road.
Rocky learns to fly
I was thoroughly enjoying the drive, admiring the azure waters coming to the white sand on the beach. Suddenly my serenity was shattered by a squawk from the passenger seat. All too late I hit the brakes - to no avail as at that instant we were launched into space.
We had hit a washout, and were catapulted to the heavens.
Then our three tonnes of ute started its descent, followed by another tonne and a half of camper.
We soon descended back to earth, and after bouncing a few times over some more washouts, we moved to smoother sand, hearts beating somewhat quicker than before. Thank goodness we weren't going fast, and we all (including Rocky and Matilda) escaped without injury.
Alexander Bay
We found Cape Le Grand National Park full, so acted on a hot tip from a local from Kalgoorlie who recommended Alexander Bay, a bit further east. We are so glad we acted on this recommendation and again found ourselves in a Shire Campground on a magnificent beach. Everyone decided we should spend four nights here - so we did. It was great to catch up on sleep, schoolwork and some good old fashioned family fun.
Alexander beach has great fishing, and some scary looking 4wd tracks over the dunes. We walked along some of them, and found a spectacular beach just west of Camp. I wasn't game to drive that particular track, but we did decide to venture onto the main beach to check it out.
It was mostly an easy drive, with some tighter sections around some rocky sections. All was going well, until we approached another couple who were fishing. It was on a narrow section of beach where the waves came almost up to the dunes - and I hesitated. It was all it took and suddenly we were bogged.
Thank goodness for the Max Trax, as with a few moments of scooping, we were free from the soft sand and the all too close waves. It was time to head back and get back to some serious activities, like trying to catch dinner.
Cape Arid National Park
We explored many of the camp grounds in the park, the majority being 4wd only. Some tracks were particularly sandy and the boys loved driving along the 'doonka doonka' tracks as the call them. The beaches were spectacular, as was the scenery just in from the coast.
Cape Le Grand National Park
We retraced our steps and found a campsite at Lucky Bay. Quick as a flash we claimed the site by unhitching Matilda, and we went to climb Frenchmans Peak. This granite hill is distinctive for its cave or tafone near its summit, which has commanding views over the Cape Le Grand area. The boys loved the 3km walk - particularly the rock hopping. The view was simply stunning, and we had a perfect day for our climb.
After a good hike, the perfect remedy is a swim in the crystal clear water. Hellfire Bay provided a simply stunning venue for our post hike swim. The water was devine, but it wasn't long until some serious fort production was ins full swing. The sand must be ancient as it is so fine on this beach that it feels almost like icing sugar - and squeaks when you dig it. We filled in a great afternoon here, before returning to the comfort of warm showers at Lucky Bay
At the campground we had a yarn with Ranger Cameron who was impressed with the little legs conquering Frenchmans Peak. He arranged for a couple of certificates to be given to the boys - complete with a little ceremnony that was very well received. This completely unnecessary act of kindness was simply wonderful and the boys were thrilled. Apparently they recently gave a certificate to an 80 year old who had also successfully made it to the top. Now that is an achievement.
We returned to Esperance via the same beach, albeit a little more carefully and again filled up with the big three, fuel food and water. It was time to head west, along the coast to see what else we could find. Little did we know our next port of call would be an emotional journey for us all.
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