After getting away from Exmouth a few hours earlier than expected, we found ourselves with the tantlising opportunity of being able to get to Millstream Chichester National Park by dark. Our route was based on a recommendation from Andy, the camp host at Kennedy Range National Park. He suggested heading north on the highway to Robe River, and then turning east to Pannawanica.
The road to Pannawanica was simply beautiful. Unexpectedly beautiful. We found ourselves getting excited about what was ahead of us as the landscape changed with every bend. If the Flinders Ranges is the bones of the Australia poking out of the ground, the Pilbara is what the bones look like after they have decayed into rubble.
Pannawanica also marked the end of the sealed road. We refuelled and bought some more supplies here - at much cheaper prices than Exmouth, before letting some air out of the tyres and continuing on our way. It was late in the afternoon - but the scenery kept us enthralled. It was our first glimpse of the mighty Hamersley Ranges.
The Hamersley Ranges
We arrived around 5.30pm at our camp, glad to be off the road. Stray cattle are not something you want to meet after dark. We were thankfull to have dinner prepared earlier, so were able to quickly set up and enjoy a meal. We had travelled 606km - plenty far enough.
Millstream Homestead
Millstream Chichester National Park combined the former Millstream Station and Chichester Range National Parks. We walked down to the former homestead and found the information displays in the building excellent. The homestead is built near a natural freshwater spring, and provides a permanent water supply, which is essential to the survival of many species found no where else. From the Millstream Palm - a relic from times when rainforest covered the land, the pool near the homestead also has introduced lillies and date palms. The crystal clear water looked inviting, but out of respect for the indigenous people, we stayed out of this pool.
We had heard that Python Pool, about 40km north east was well worth visiting, so decided to head out that way. We paused to climb Mount Herbert - and were rewarded with incredible 360 degree views. We were on the Chichester Range, and could see for an incredible distance in all directions. Rugged gorges, seemingly endless plains, the Pilbara was starting to have a real attraction.
We found ourselves shorthly in the shadow of the river gums at Python Pool. This plunge pool looked very deep, and would be absolutely spectacular in flood. We decided not to chance a swim - there was a small algal bloom, but sat in awe of this special place.
The colours of the country continued to keep us enthralled. This region had received good rain from the same system that nearly destroyed Cape Range National Park near Exmouth. It was looking fantastic for a region that has a 'tropical arid' climate. The spinifex was in full flower, with golden stalks contrasting with the red soil and blue skies.
After our excursion to the Chichester Ranges, we returned to Millstream to the permanent water supply of Deep Reach. The National Park had established steps and ladders into the water - and it was refreshing to have a dip in the water hole.
The Fortesque River is typical of many in this area - the majority of it is dry, with water holes linked by sandy gravel beds. The water is often flowing under the sand. We had forded the river both upstream and downstream of the homestead, and both crossings were dry. The size and volume of water here was far more than we expected.
We later found out the water that provides the natural spring at Millstream is harvested by WA Water, for Karratha and other areas and is pumped north. The Millstream Aquifer provides this water supply - but we wondered at its stustainability after it was revealed that in dry years, the water table drops considerably and WA Water is forced to pump water into the river system to support the fragile ecosystems there. We just hope the balance is struck before we go too far and ruin this magic place forever.
We found the Millstream Chichester National Park a beautiful place to spend a couple of days. It was a great place to be introduced to many of the special parts to the Pilbara. As good as it was though, we were heading somewhere even better - and the extra day up our sleeve was going to be much appreciated. We packed up and headed south. Destination Karijini.
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