Monday 26 May 2014

The magical Broome

With two good weeks since our last stay in civilisation (if you could call being stuck at Gascoyne Junction civilisation), it was time for us to settle down for a few days of being a tourist in a tourist town.  In fact we have been travelling reasonably hard since Easter, and it was time for a day or two of rest.  We arrived in Broome early in the morning, thankful our roadside camp the night before was only a couple of hours down the road. 

Boab trees in Broome 

We were struck by the warmth and the humidity, and for the first time it felt like we were truly in the tropics.  Jo felt at home, and I too was transported back to a younger time in my life.  It was a glorious feeling to be back in the balmy weather - kind of like running into an old friend you had lost touch with.  We were glad to have chosen to spend a few days here.

Several people we had met on the road didn't have much to say about Broome, which was surprising.  It all comes down to what you expect and want to achieve I guess.  We booked ourselves into a caravan park with a fantastic pool, and then hit the town!


After treating ourselves to a cold iced slushy at a cafe (bliss), we wandered around checking out some to the historical buildings and reading about the history of Broome.  Broome, was for a long time Australia's most multicultural town, it received exemption from what was to become the White Australia Policy, however under the proud history is stories of race riots and exploitation of Aboriginal and later Malay and Japanese divers.  Broome was also bombed twice during the Second World War - leaving several Catalina Flying boats sunk at their moorings.  They are still there today.

Pearling was the main industry for many years - but after plastic buttons replaced the need for mother of pearl shell, the town suffered a steady decline, until tourism and the development of the cultured pearl industry reversed the decline and turned it into the bustling town you find today.  We checked out some of the Pearling heritage - and the boys figured a couple of minutes on the three cylinder air pump was enough effort for one day!

Checking out the old three cylinder air pump used to provide air to divers working the sea bed in hard hat diving suits


Old Diver's helmet as worn when diving for pearl.  Many divers lost their life through drowning, the bends or shark attack.

The famous Sun Pictures was open for tourists to stick their head in, and we spent a few grateful minutes resting in the old slung seats.  The cinema is still showing movies - with the screen and much of the seating in the gardens.  Unfortunately the movies were only on late (being open air you need to wait until the sun sets) and not really suitable or kids - so we contented ourselves with this little visit.


Chillaxing in the Sun Pictures

After lunch - we enjoyed an afternoon relaxing at the caravan park pool.  The kids made several new friends and they all had a wonderful time racing each other up and down the pool.  The weather was perfect - and the pool nicely shaded so we happily all turned into prunes, before hauling ourselves out in the evening to wander down to the beach and check out the sunset.

Iconic Cable Beach at sunset

Apparently Cable Beach is voted one of the top five beaches in the world - by whom I don't know.  The beach in the evening was a veritable highway at the northern end of the rocks with lots of cars driving up and down.  The boys were also fascinated by the gait of the camels (an amble rather than a walk) - but little did they know we had a trick up our sleeves for that one!

Boys appreciate the sunset

The following morning, we treated ourselves to a camel ride on Cable Beach.  We didn't realise there are two companies doing tours, one has red saddle cloths and the other blue.  The obvious difference being the red camels go faster.  We chose the blue camels - and were thoroughly delighted with our ride.  The blokes looking after the camels (cameleers?)  knew each of the camels likes and dislikes, personality and were only too happy to share their knowledge.  A big thank you to Adam and Matt from the Blue Camels - we had a great time.  Being early morning it was delightful, with the sun on the best side to take photographs.

The best way to see the beach!

Our selfie on our camel

Our next selfie

The Little Fisherman gets a good look at Mustave's teeth!

After our camel ride, we headed into town to check out the Broome Markets.  I am not normally a market man - in fact there are many things I would consider to be more exciting than going to markets - sticking needles in my eyes for one - but every now and then I have to go along and carry bags, take kids off for wee stops and the like.  Now I'm not going to pretend that Broome Markets were any different to any others I have been to, there was the usual collection of junk, tin jewellery, handmade leather and timber goods - but I did get one of the best home-made lemonades ever followed by a delicious ice-cream.  On the balance, I think I prefer markets to sticking needles in my eyes... for now at least.

On our way back to the caravan park, we were almost hauled off the road by the Year Nine class of Broome High School.  They were fundraising for a school camp to Coral Bay, by running a, wait for it, car wash!  Bonus!

Now Rocky was carrying a few extra kilos of dirt after our last adventure - and I had been meaning to give a bit of a wash to at least the underside.  Salvation came in the form of about 30 eager and enthusiastic young Australians who gave Rocky a record quick wash.  We felt slightly guilty at the amount of red dirt left in our wake (they could use it for top dressing the school oval), so we threw a few extra dollars their way over the normal rate.  Hope they get to camp - they deserved it after our visit!

Cricket waiting for the sun to set

And then it was back to relaxing Broome style - by the pool, before returning to the beach to watch the sun set.  This time we went a little earlier, with a few extra supplies and as the sun set, we played a bit of cricket before settling in and making fresh hamburgers.  All in all it was a delightful day and we again wondered why people didn't rate staying in Broome.

I'll have a burger with the lot thanks

Cable Beach after sun set - the colours of a tropical sun set over the water are never forgotten

After a morning catching up on schoolwork, we went for an excursion (permission notes in hand), to the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park. We feared we would be given a tourist spiel however were very impressed with the informative and educational presentation made at feeding time.
Outside the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park

Everyone got a real buzz being able to hold a real live crocodile.  This little fellow is about 18 months old - but has a mouth full of tiny sharp teeth.  The farm is part education, part wildlife refuge, part commercial (the crocodiles are raised for their leather).

Little Fisherman holds a Saltie... baby one of course

We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon at the park - and all learnt something about not only crocodiles, but many of the other birds and animals at the centre.  The only problem I had was a lifesize sculpture of a crocodile just outside the pond with 70 of his living and breathing cousins...  Got me every time - until I sent the Little Helper over to sort him out.

Little Helper wrestles one that jumped the fence

Our evening was completed with a visit to Gantheaume Point.  The tide was too high to see the dinosaur footprints, but we enjoyed scrambling around the rocks.  The sunset itself was obscured behind clouds - but the beauty of this place was easy to see, with the banded red sandstone contrastiing with the blue waters.

Sunset at Gantheaume Point

Lighthouse at Gantheaume Point

And so in short, we loved every minute in Broome.  Between spending lots of time in the pool and generally relaxing, we managed to see some of the real highlights of this town.  It was fantastic.

What we don't really know is what we are in for next.  As soon as I finish typing this entry, we will be packing up and heading up the Dampier Peninsular to Cape Leveque.  We have heard good things about the Cape - but apparently getting there is half the challenge!

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