We had enjoyed our time at the beautiful camp site at Dundaburra, but it was time to venture inland and explore some more of Fraser Island. With low water being not long after breakfast, we packed up in the morning and made our way back south on 75 Mile Beach.
One of the most stunning creeks on the east coast is Eli Creek. Pure fresh water flows in large volumes along this sandy creek bed into the Coral Sea. Popular with tourists we were the first car of the morning to pull up near the creek - and for a good 20 minutes had this magic piece of paradise to ourselves.
Eli Creek - delightful
We walked up the boardwark a couple of hundred meters, and entered the water. Being the first of the morning, the creek was pristine, and jungle perch scooted out of our way as we floated down towards the mouth.
We enjoyed several laps down the creek before pulling out the Frisbee. As we frolicked in the shallows, cars and buses started to arrive, with people moving in for the day. We felt extremely lucky to have enjoyed Eli Creek with the jungle perch, but as the crowds moved in, we jumped back in the car and headed south.
We caught up with Dan and Bianca again at their home. Dan and Bianca's extensive knowledge of the island was fascinating and some of the insights they shared, including some special walks, was very much appreciated.
Armed with the best information possible, and with full bellies after a delicious morning tea, we started heading inland towards our camp at Central Station. The scenery driving through the giant Satinay forests was beautiful, but it was hard going on the car and in one place we got stuck.
Being stuck was inconvenient, but in no time at all the Little Helpers had placed the MaxTrax under the wheels and we were back underway. What was amusing in this instance was the one car behind us. In his impatience to get around us in the five minutes we were getting ourselves ready to get going, he had tried to pass on some very soft sand and got himself stuck. After we got out and on some firmer ground, we helped him get out - and let him go around us before we continued on our way to Central Station without further incident.
Central Station was another lovely campsite, fenced to keep the Dingos out (or the people in). Surrounded by magnificent rainforest it was a place where you could really relax. At night, marsupial mice scurried around camp, with their busy antics amusing us.
Whilst Central Station was a logging camp, it has a much longer histroy being an area associated with the Butchulla women who would come here to give birth. As we wandered along the crystal clear Wanggoolba Creek (so clear it was hard to see water in it), it was worth pausing to think about the countless generations who were born and raised in this area.
We chose to base ourselves at Central Station for four nights in order to explore some of the lakes that are found in this part of the island. The most well known lake is Lake Mackenzie - and we made our way to this lake shortly after breakfast. Somehow our luck of finding these magic places almost deserted held up - with one other couple enjoying a dip when we arrived - and then they left, meaning we had this magnificent picturesque lake all to ourselves.
The water was warm and crystal clear, the bottom white sand and the effect was simply amazing. We loved it so much that we spent the whole morning here, long after other people started arriving.
Simply Stunning
We enjoyed lunch at the picnic area near the lake before deciding to return back to camp. It was getting hot, everyone had turned into prunes and the thought of a lazy afternoon in the shady campsite was tempting. We started heading back on the loop road back to camp when we came to a long stretch of sand that was particularly soft, and we bogged down.
The sand in the full sun was scaldingly hot, unbelievably soft and as soon as we shoveled it out, more sand would pour in the hole. We also ended up with three cars and two buses behind us in no time - making our efforts to extract ourselves even more frantic.
We ended up stuck right down to the chassis, and the MaxTrax didn't even pull us out. We needed more shovelling - hot sweaty work in the full sun. I was just thankful we didn't have the trailer on which would have made it ten times worse.
We eventually got out, made it another few metres and promptly got stuck again. I found the sand extremely difficult to judge and just couldn't get the balance of momentum, power and speed right. After our third bogging the patience of the blokes behind us was wearing thin. Their advice - 2nd gear low, redline it and don't back off until you make it to a pull over bay just up the way. We did and bounced and rattled our way to the bay, where we pulled over and let our merry convoy pass us.
The experience had taught us that the MaxTrax won't get you out of every bogging on their own. Also the heat of the sand had caused the tyre pressures to creap up - so whilst we sat and caught our breath, I dumped some more air out of the tyres.
Relieved to be finally out of the worst of the road, we decided that we needed another swim - and took a quick walk up to Basin Lake. Yes - we walked uphill, and just over the lip found a stunning perched lake with just one couple sitting relaxing reading some books in the shade. We apologiesed for disturbing their peace and sank into the water thankful for this magnificent place.
When we got back to camp that night, we held a little family discussion. The experience of getting stuck had taken some of the wind out of everyone's sails. We needed an opportunity to recheck our situation, to organise a new rear window, and stop for a moment. We considered having a rest day at camp - but there were just enough flying bugs to make that option unpalatable to the kids. We had a couple more nights booked in, but elected to return to the mainland the following morning. There was just one more thing we really wanted to see.
Giant Satinay Forest
We packed up the next morning and returned without incident to the beach - perhaps I am getting the hang of this driving on sand after all. We headed a short distance north and found ourselves on a short walk to Wabby Lake.
Wabby Lake is another perched lake, however it is being encorached by a massive sandblow. Its emerald green waters looked inviting, and as we again had the place to ourselves we dived in. After a while we decided that perhaps someone else might also come along, so reluctantly we put our bathers on, and continued our swim. It was delightful.
On the way back to the carpark, we passed first one couple, then another, and then a steady stream of backpackers. Our timing had been impeccable - again!
And so before long we had made the drive back to Hook Point and found ourselves on the Manta Ray Ferry back to Inskip Point. Our six nights on the island had been an experience we would not forget.
There is no denying that Fraser Island or K'Gari is an extremely special place. Its magnificent perched lakes are amazing for just being there - and the fact they are delightful to swim in is just a bonus. We were extremely lucky to visit some of the most popular attractions with no one else around, showcasing their amazing beauty.
It isn't easy to get around the island - and that is part of its appeal in a way. I found it extremely difficult to get the technique right - as evidenced by our damage to our rear window on our second day, and our massive bogging on sixth.
It was fantastic to catch up with Dan, Bianca and their two beautiful girls. Living on the island is a privilege and one they are making the most of. The island rejuvinates them - and we were lucky to share part of it with them.
So we returned a surprise and lobbed ourselves on the doorstep of some unsuspecting family!
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